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Penstock Rock

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Castle Magic S 
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Penstock Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.51005, -118.5696 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,646
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Salamanizer suchoski, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006
Forecast:
Overnight

25°
Monday

42° | 20°
Tuesday

44° | 21°
Wednesday

50° | 23°
Thursday

57° | 28°
Friday

58° | 33°
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Some guy from WA psyching up for the crux of Pumpi...

Description 

Basically located in the power plant parking lot...not the prettiest location. Thank god the rock and routes make up for the atmosphere. The cliff is littered with strange old DWP concrete and rebar and well as glue filled cracks. The best routes are in the hard 5.11 - 5.12 range.

Getting There 

walk along middle power plant road to the working power plant.

Climbing Season

For the Lower Gorge area.

Weather station 18.0 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Penstock Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Penstock Rock:
D.W.P.   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Pumping Groundwater   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
Flashflood   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Penstock Rock

Featured Route For Penstock Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumping Groundwater. photo by Peter Paredes.

Pumping Groundwater 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Penstock Rock
Superb cracklet and face to the right of "Flashflood"...Have heard trad complaints due to the stellar crack with bolts on the bottom...but I enjoyed clipping from the locks...Maybe easier if you are taller. 11d felt right to me....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Penstock Rock Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Jul 29, 2006
Note to people who get in a dither about glueing: this entire cliff appears to be bolted and glued to the canyon wall.

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