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Penny Lane 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Clint Cummins 9/2009
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Penny Lane on the left. Penny Dreadful on the rig...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route includes gear-protected crack climbing, bolt protected face climbing and a fun roof.

Pitch 1 - head up and slightly left on a short headwall and gain a crack which runs up the face. Climb this crack for a short bit then traverse right into another crack which runs longer up the face. Follow this crack for about 100' to the belay which takes a #2 and #3 Camalot. This pitch is about 215' so if you have a 60m rope you will need to simulclimb with the follower on easy terrain. 5.6.

Pitch 2 - work up and left into the left facing dihedral which turns into a roof. Surmount the roof on nice holds and proceed left to a ledge and belay(#1 Camalot and other gear). 5.5.

Pitch 3 - climb up and left following a small crack for 20 feet to the base of a dark water streak. Climb the water streak past seven bolts with the crux coming at the top to a two bolt anchor. 5.7.

Location 

This route begins at the low point of the rock buttress about 200' left of the huge dihedral which splits the Pennyroyal Arches formation.

To descend either traverse straight right about 100' to the tree atop the third pitch of Penny Dreadful(stay roped together; there is a 5th class move halfway) and do two double rope rappels(two 60m ropes mandatory). Alternately, head straight left on ledges to the left end of the formation and hike back to the start.

Protection 

Full rack of trad gear up to a #3 Camalot.


Photos of Penny Lane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shau pausing for picture on P2 with Tenaya Lake in...
Shau pausing for picture on P2 with Tenaya Lake in...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ramsey leading P3 of Penny Lane
Ramsey leading P3 of Penny Lane
Rock Climbing Photo: Shau climbing up P1 of Penny Lane
Shau climbing up P1 of Penny Lane
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Pennyroyal Arches formation.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Pennyroyal Arches formation.
Rock Climbing Photo: Longer view.
BETA PHOTO: Longer view.

Comments on Penny Lane Add Comment
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By Ben Townsend
Jul 28, 2016

Fun climb. On the second pitch, I inadvertently went up around the roof on the right, then did an unprotected face traverse to the belay -- not recommended. Go left under the roof until the crack appears. The third pitch will keep your full attention -- it's possible to get some small to medium cams in horizontals between the bolts.

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