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Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Satan's slit T 
Balding For Dollars S 
Body Snatcher , The S 
Clandestine Affair T 
Climb & Punishment T 
Crime of the Century T 
Drain Evader T,TR 
Hangover T 
Health Hazard T 
Kahoukers T 
Partners In Crime T 
Penny Lane T 
Popeye and the Raven S 
Power Windows T,S 
Quarryman T 
Red Rocket T 
Short People T 
Sunny Days in December T 
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 
Up, Up and Away T 
Werewolves of London T 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 
Yorkshire Gripper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Penny Lane 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: Keith Rajala, C. McCafferty (aid) 1975 FFA: Anders Ourom, John Arts 1978
Page Views: 12,347
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006  with updates from 20 kN

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (302)
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Penny Lane Photo by Dan Krauss

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher. Over the years, a top anchor is cyclically installed and chopped. It is currently in the "chopped" condition and thus you must traverse the cliff top to the left and rappel from above Crime of the Century.

If you happen to know who is doing this, tell them to cut that shit out. It's ridiculous and unwarranted - the Smoke Bluffs done been discovered, it's a world-class destination for Pete's sake!


Single rack to #2 Camalot (2x .5 - #1 helpful)


Top of the Fern Gully Trail.

Photos of Penny Lane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emma cruising the onsight
Emma cruising the onsight
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Penny Lane
Upper Penny Lane
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane.  Crime of the C...
BETA PHOTO: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane. Crime of the C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux on Penny Lane.
Above the crux on Penny Lane.
Rock Climbing Photo: Basque climber Saioa starting up Penny Lane
Basque climber Saioa starting up Penny Lane
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Penny Lane II
Upper Penny Lane II
Rock Climbing Photo: Basque climber Saioa  near one of two lower cruxes...
Basque climber Saioa near one of two lower cruxes...

Comments on Penny Lane Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2017
By coop Best
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008

Climbed it in August 2007 and it is getting a little worn. Very fun!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Um, as good as 5.9 handcracks get. Excellent stuff.

The rap bolts are way left of the climb. Easiest to build a small anchor on top and bring your second up. Be careful of not dropping rocks on the folks below when walking to the anchor.
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 7, 2009

Outstanding. I was laughing with glee the entire way up this fun route.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2011

awesome climb. to reiterate what Andy said, you have to build a gear anchor at the top of this climb. You can make due with a lg nut and some .5 camalots or big cam. then walk left and rap (dont knock pebbles down on everyone and watch your rope as it falls right over crime)
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun fun fun. A bit bouldery at the start, then just great jams and feet the whole way to the top.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2012

First 20 feet or so were the crux for me. Had to trust some smeary stemming moves to gain better jams. After that, the route was straight forward.
By Mat Brunton
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Bottom 1/3 is the hardest; it's somewhat bouldery, the crack is thin, and the rock is polished and slick (likely from so much traffic). Anchor options exist: you can continue direct up the crack through lower angle terrain to a solid tree to sling (you can rap back to ground from here with a 70m), you can move left and use 2 bolts chain anchors above Crime of the Century (don't do this if someone is on Crime), or you can move even further left of Crime of the Century for another set of 2 bolt chain anchors.
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Oct 6, 2016

Great route, although I dont understand why the most popular route in the entire area doesent have an anchor, but the three routes left and right of this route do. People just end up raining rock fall down on everyone as they cut left. It used to have an anchor, it still should.

Also, you dont need a 70m to get to the ground, a 60m makes it in one rap no problem.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
May 30, 2017

Agreed with 20kn, would be nice for people who want to do crime of the century to not have to wait for parties to finish penny lane.

A pink tricam in addition to the yellow alien/.4 makes a great anchor.
By Matthew Tangeman
Aug 31, 2017

Thanks to whoever installed the anchor last week! There are now chains at the top.
By Raymo
From: New York, NY
Sep 6, 2017

Climbed yesterday and looks like someone chopped the anchor bolts already - bring gear for an anchor...

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