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Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Satan's slit T 
Balding For Dollars S 
Body Snatcher , The S 
Clandestine Affair T 
Climb & Punishment T 
Crime of the Century T 
Drain Evader T,TR 
Hangover T 
Health Hazard T 
Kahoukers T 
Partners In Crime T 
Penny Lane T 
Popeye and the Raven S 
Power Windows T,S 
Quarryman T 
Red Rocket T 
Short People T 
Sunny Days in December T 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 
Up, Up and Away T 
Werewolves of London T 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 
Yorkshire Gripper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Penny Lane 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA: Keith Rajala, C. McCafferty (aid) 1975 FFA: Anders Ourom, John Arts 1978
Page Views: 10,120
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006  with updates from 20 kN

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Emma cruising the onsight

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher.

The route has no anchor at the top so you must build a gear anchor (BD .4 or yellow Alien are useful), and rappel using a single 60m off the bolted anchor 20' to the left.

Protection 

Single rack to #2 Camalot (2x .5 - #1 helpful)

Location 

Top of the Fern Gully Trail.


Photos of Penny Lane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
'Penny Lane' at Penny Lane, Smoke Bluffs - Squamis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Penny Lane
Upper Penny Lane
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane.  Crime of the C...
BETA PHOTO: Climbers at the top of Penny Lane. Crime of the C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux on Penny Lane.
Above the crux on Penny Lane.
Rock Climbing Photo: Basque climber Saioa starting up Penny Lane
Basque climber Saioa starting up Penny Lane
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Penny Lane II
Upper Penny Lane II
Rock Climbing Photo: Basque climber Saioa  near one of two lower cruxes...
Basque climber Saioa near one of two lower cruxes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Penny Lane Photo by Dan Krauss
Penny Lane Photo by Dan Krauss

Comments on Penny Lane Add Comment
Show which comments
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 2, 2008

Climbed it in August 2007 and it is getting a little worn. Very fun!
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Um, as good as 5.9 handcracks get. Excellent stuff.

The rap bolts are way left of the climb. Easiest to build a small anchor on top and bring your second up. Be careful of not dropping rocks on the folks below when walking to the anchor.
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 7, 2009

Outstanding. I was laughing with glee the entire way up this fun route.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2011

awesome climb. to reiterate what Andy said, you have to build a gear anchor at the top of this climb. You can make due with a lg nut and some .5 camalots or big cam. then walk left and rap (dont knock pebbles down on everyone and watch your rope as it falls right over crime)
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun fun fun. A bit bouldery at the start, then just great jams and feet the whole way to the top.
By Sean H
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 6, 2012

First 20 feet or so were the crux for me. Had to trust some smeary stemming moves to gain better jams. After that, the route was straight forward.
By Mat Brunton
Jul 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Bottom 1/3 is the hardest; it's somewhat bouldery, the crack is thin, and the rock is polished and slick (likely from so much traffic). Anchor options exist: you can continue direct up the crack through lower angle terrain to a solid tree to sling (you can rap back to ground from here with a 70m), you can move left and use 2 bolts chain anchors above Crime of the Century (don't do this if someone is on Crime), or you can move even further left of Crime of the Century for another set of 2 bolt chain anchors.
By 20 kN
Administrator
From: Hawaii
Oct 6, 2016

Great route, although I dont understand why the most popular route in the entire area doesent have an anchor, but the three routes left and right of this route do. People just end up raining rock fall down on everyone as they cut left. It used to have an anchor, it still should.

Also, you dont need a 70m to get to the ground, a 60m makes it in one rap no problem.