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Moderate Mecca
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey Road T 
Ace of Hearts T,TR 
Baby Swiss S 
Bad Soup S 
Boodler T 
Born To Bleed 
Carpetbagger T 
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 
Feelin' Groovy S 
Fleet Street T 
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 
Goose Poop Roof T 
Haj, The T 
Immoral S 
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 
Muckraker T 
Mugwump TR 
Not So Moderate T,TR 
Pending Disaster T 
Penny Lane T 
Route to Mecca, The T 
Scalawag T 
Side Effects S 
Singing Love Pen T 
Sir Climbalot T 
Small Claims T 
Soup Nazi TR 
Soupy Sales T,TR 
Stew on This S 
Treacherous Journey T 
Valentine's Day T,TR 
Vera's Roof 
You Who Jim T 
Unsorted Routes:

Penny Lane 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,013
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: Penny Lane. (Climbers on Abbey Road)

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Climb the crack system in the huge corner/gully to the right of the Fleet Street slab.


Standard Rack

Comments on Penny Lane Add Comment
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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

This route is not worth the effort IMHO. Be AWARE that most of the climb in on loose blocks. Very low quality route that should be avoided unless you're into this sort of P.O.S.
By Mike Mu.
From: hagerstown
Apr 18, 2007

dont waste your time
By scott isaacman
From: Silver Bay, MN
Apr 26, 2008

I liked this climb. It was easy and fun. Did Abby Road right after, although I think it is just a little to the left.
By JGriffis
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 3, 2010

I thought the route was great for a first trad lead. Low stress, easy climbing. Good route for getting acquainted with placing pro. It is chossy, though, in some places. Tread lightly through the upper bit of the pitch, especially.
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011

Thought this was really good fun, and the rock isn't bad at all. Perhaps the comments above came from another similar climb? We climbed some anonymous horror around the corner thinking it was Penny Lane, about 5.4-5.5, but VERY loose and chossy. I can't find details of it in Handren's book or on here. Penny Lane itself was fun, and super clean in comparison.
By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 26, 2013

There are some loose rocks, but no more so than other routes of comparable grade. Overall a good route. The fly's at the bottom of the route in the summer time are extreamely annoying.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 25, 2013

Not a bad route if you free solo it. Use all the available jams to milk the full value.
By Robert Karl
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 29, 2016

Very safe beginner lead. Definitely chossy. You can walk off the top so it feels like you've accomplished something.

There's a single bolt about 105' feet up, but no chains.
By David Kerkeslager
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 24, 2017
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Pretty easy, even for a beginner trad leader. I'll leave some beta which might be obvious to someone with some experience but might be helpful to a newbie since this is likely to be lead by newbies:

1. There's no rule you can't supplement fixed pro with artificial pro. We supplemented the bolt at the top with a #3 C4.
2. If you rap down on a 60m rope you're going to come up about 1.5m short; rapping off the end of your rope is more dangerous than the downclimb. Don't forget stopper knots!

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