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Penny Dreadful 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 9/2008
Page Views: 221
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The fourth pitch is full-value Meadows face climbing.

Pitch 1 - climb up easy slab for about 75-80' heading for an obvious right facing dihedral. Once you reach the dihedral you can get pro. Belay about halfway up the dihedral on a small stance. 5.6-57.

Pitch 2 - continue up the dihedral and then up and right as it curves. At it's end climb up into a small left facing dihedral. Belay about 20 feet below the large ledge system which splits the face. 5.7

Pitch 3 - climb up 25' to the large ledge and belay at a large tree.

Pitch 4 - the crux. Climb up and right past two bolts to a small ledge. Place a small stopper and step up to clip the third bolt. Traverse left and then up to a fourth bolt. Head up and right to a small crack system to the fifth bolt. Proceed up the crack (#2 Camalot) to a headwall and the sixth bolt. Surmount the headwall(crux) to a ledge with a bolt. Up a crack for 20' to a two bolt belay.

Location 

This route starts about 100' left of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. You are heading for the obvious right facing dihedral. Climb up easy slabs to reach it.

To descend rap from the top of the fourth pitch with two 60m ropes. From the large ledge rap from the tree for 60m to a double bolt anchor. Rap 60m to the ground from there.

Protection 

Take a full range of stoppers and cams up to a #3 Camalot. The fourth pitch takes several small stoppers and a #1 and #2 Camalot.


Photos of Penny Dreadful Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pennyroyal Arches.
BETA PHOTO: Pennyroyal Arches.
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Pennyroyal Arches.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Pennyroyal Arches.
Rock Climbing Photo: Penny Lane on the left.  Penny Dreadful on the rig...
BETA PHOTO: Penny Lane on the left. Penny Dreadful on the rig...

Comments on Penny Dreadful Add Comment
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By Ben Townsend
Jul 28, 2016

The rappels below the tree are both 60m rope-stretchers.

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