REI Community
search
Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass S 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Penny Candy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 1990
Page Views: 2,438
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Alanna with amazing position on Penny Candy.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the pitch above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer, which follows 3 bolts up the arete. I recommend skipping the intermediate belay and linking the pitches for a great 90ft pitch. You will most likely want a couple long slings on the first two bolts, if linking the pitches.

Location 

The arete above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer...

Protection 

3 bolts


Photos of Penny Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swing...
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swing...
Rock Climbing Photo: Celebrations are in order, my friends.
Celebrations are in order, my friends.

Comments on Penny Candy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Feb 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After "Fear of Flying," my favorite route at Phantom Spires. Airy and exciting climbing followed by a fun rappel. We reached the ground with one 60m.

I struggled between giving the climb 3 or 4 stars and finally went with 4 since the exposure and the position of the line are both incredible. A blast to climb and a good tick for mere mortals like myself.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Definitely the best part of climbing lean and mean. The prow is short, but memorable.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About