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Flying Buttress
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Penny Arcade 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 320'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Bitter, Carruthers, Carruthers, 1982
Page Views: 1,480
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Flying Buttress 2003

Description 

All I really recall was the first pitch stemming dihedral was really nice, and takes a bunch of small but solid stoppers. Makes a nice "bonus route" when you're wiped out from the hike in, or on your second morning in the cirque, when the idea of starting a climb in the shade seems unappealing.Morning sun!!!

Pitch 1. Follow the rather thin corner system up to a ledge.

Pitch 2. Continue up the corner for 40' then traverse right and continue up the face to an offwidth which can be climbed up to another ledge.

Pitch 3. Continue up the corner system again to the top.

Descent: Walk off North/west to desend back into the Cirque. Don't try to rappel the Flying Butress.

Of historical note: Merril Bitter and party did just the first pitch before bailing due to an afternoon storm. Dan Baker and Allen Sanderson did the first recorded ascent in 1988. Others may have preceeded both parties as a pin was found high on the first pitch.

Protection 

First pitch: plenty of small wires!!! Otherwise, standard rack.


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By Allen Sanderson
From: Oootah
Jul 6, 2007

A bit more on this route:

Pitch 1. Follow the rather thin corner system up to a ledge.

Pitch 2. Continue up the corner for 40' then traverse right and continue up the face to an offwidth which can be climbed up to another ledge.

Pitch 3. Continue up the corner system again to the top.

Of historical note: Merril Bitter and party did just the first pitch before bailing due to an afternoon storm. Dan Baker and I did the first recorded ascent in 1988. Others may have preceeded both parties as a pin was found high on the first pitch.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Apr 27, 2012

Don't try to rappel the Flying Butress.

Walk off north, then curve around west. It's a nice stroll.
By LoganSLC
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Old School rating. Expect to run the gamut on this alpine route!

P1 - Beautiful movement up parallel cracks moving past several loose blocks and working into stemming dihedral crack climbing. Move past optional P1 belay into a size 4 crack to a huge belay ledge. (I was able to bump my size 3 C4 cam several times with careful placement.)

P2 - Climb through shrubbery until you reach off-width dihedral system with a range of .3-.75 interior placements and an old piton clip. Step onto a large chicken head and follow face crack into pod. Find a perfect hands rest and enter flakey/dirty diamond shaped crack that leads back into dihedral for 20' till top out where you can sling a large flake.

Old school players (5.9), new school fools (5.10+)

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