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Pennies On The Patio 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Page Views: 3,793
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Nov 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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A twilght ascent....after all the tourists have le...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Route Description 

Take the stairs from the parking lot and head straight to the top! Once on top, take an immediate right (west south west) and down a few yards to the NPS Information sign by the railing (not to be confused with the "Stay Inside The Railing" novel!). Just over the railing and down 100 feet is the 'Patio Terrace'. Rappel (single rope) or be lower off from the sign and down to the terrace.

Start back up by climbing the initial steep face with good features (chickenheads and small cracks....good pro to 2") to a small ledge. Once at the ledge, scale the face, passing three bolts on a knobby face (5.8). Climbing the right side of the route steepens the rating to 5.10a. This is a good climb to do laps on.

Top rope gear: LONG slings to back up on the rock behind the railing and a 60 meter rope.

Leading: (3) quickdraws, small to medium gear (#0 Metolius helpful), a few slings for chickenheads/knobs

Be prepared to fight off the "tourons" and their bottomless questions and comments: "Hey! How do you get the rope back up?", "Are you getting ready to bungee jump?", "Why don't YOU obey the signs posted?", "Can I take a picture with you and my kids?" AAARGGGGGGG!!!!

Photos of Pennies On The Patio Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary enjoying clean granite on 'Pennies On The Pat...
Mary enjoying clean granite on 'Pennies On The Pat...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bryan starting up pennies from Patio ledge
Bryan starting up pennies from Patio ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Pennies on the Patio 5.8
Pennies on the Patio 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: This is how we rigged our setup - We Built a 3 Sli...
BETA PHOTO: This is how we rigged our setup - We Built a 3 Sli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the Right side of the Pennies Route.
Climbing the Right side of the Pennies Route.

Comments on Pennies On The Patio Add Comment
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By Kat Richards
Dec 3, 2014

I wanted to post an update here - since we just recently climbed this route (Nov 2014) and wanted to give people a heads up of what to expect.

The giant flat terrace that you see in the pictures is not what you rappel down to. At least it wasn't for us. With our 60m Rope, we were only able to rappel (just barely) to a small ledge. It looks like it may not make it... but it does.

We used 3 LONG Slings to build an anchor, a PAS to allow the top belay from below the anchors focal point.

Definitely a lot of tourists will watch you - but they were all super nice to us, and even hooked us up with some great pics!
By Pulldownfrenzy
From: Visalia, CA
Dec 31, 2014

This is a really nice fun warm-up before climbing harder single-pitch routes on Moro. Or you can do what we did (Oct '14) and play around after climbing a long aid or free route. We did a few laps on it as a warm-down after S. Face. Perfect end to a perfect day!

Felt right-on for the grade. We built a trad anchor from the rocks ~10' back from the railing and belayed off of a Munter hitch.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 11, 2017

Dave's description is as simple to follow as you are going to get. Go to the top of the stairs where the railing takes a jog to the west look down past the railing at PotP.
By Randy Rataj
Jul 17, 2017

Climbed this route over the weekend. When you get to the top of the stairs and step down, turn right. There is an ironic sign saying "stay in railing" and another sign that informs you of the pollution in the valley.

With a 60m rope, we could lower each other down to the lower patio. We belayed from the top inside the railing.
By Alonso Rodriguez
From: Fresno, Ca
Jul 21, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just did this climb last weekend on 7/15/17. The climbing is a lot of fun! We used two 6mm x 50ft lengths of accessory cord in order to make a really strong anchor around a boulder behind the railing. We also girth hitched a sling to the railing for backup. I would not sport climb this route. The bolts are really rusty and are in major need of a replacement. I'll add pictures soon.

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