All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon

Penitentiary Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Penitentiary Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cell Life T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Climbs and Misdemeanors TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	County Lockup T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Deception TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
	Fresh Fish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jack the Ripper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Jailbait T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Life Sentence T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Minimum Security T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Possession T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Prison Wallet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rehabilitation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Repeat Offender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	S&M / B&D T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Speed is of the Essence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sticky Zipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tax Evasion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Three Strikes T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

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Elevation:	5,554 ft
GPS:	40.6221, -111.7634 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	35,755 total · 132/month
Shared By:	Adam Broadbent on Dec 29, 2001 · Updates
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

All routes are trad and are on the finest quartzite rock. There are many moderate routes that are fantastic for the beginner to intermediate climber (5.7-5.9+), all offer protection that is superb and plentiful. On the more demanding routes (5.10R and above) the protection is small and a little tricky to place, but secure once fitted correctly. Most routes follow obvious cracks and all have some sort of rappel at the top (bring some ditch webbing in case the old rap anchors are crusty). The area is best in the summer, but can be climbed in fall (snow permitting). Not much for camping offered nearby, but for the truly determined camping is allowed anywhere within a quarter mile from Big Cottonwood river, no fires.

Getting There

This crag lies on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, above the Ledgemere Picnic area. Drive 1.4 miles past the neon sign at the mouth of the canyon, park at the camp or along the road to avoide paying a $2 fee that is enforced during the summer. To get to the crag, walk across the westmost bridge into Ledgemere camp and head east (left) until site #5. An obvious high traffic talus slope presents itself wandering up the south side of the canyon. Follow the loose talus for two hundred yards or so, then break left (east) into a gully, (blue spray paint marks the mouth of the gully thanks to some obvious losers) . The routes are on the north facing wall, spread along it for a hundred yards or so.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Penitentiary Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 92 ● Tax Evasion Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 30 ● Rehabilitation Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 41 ● Speed is of the Essence Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 12 ● County Lockup Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 7 ● Prison Wallet Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 122 ● Climb and Punishment Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 35 ● Jailbait Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 14 ● Life Sentence Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 30 ● Minimum Security Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 13 ● Climbs and Misdemeanors TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X 4 ● Cell Life Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R 5 ● Jack the Ripper Trad, TR