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Hillbilly Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.6 dihedral T,TR 
Balls on a Kite T,TR 
Barnyard TR 
Bio-Degradable T,TR 
Booze Pigs S,TR 
Cascadia T 
Curse of the Drill S 
Drink to Puke T,TR 
End of the Innocence S 
End of the Innocence variation S,TR 
Generation Gap S 
Her Spidery Chamber T,TR 
High School Romancer TR 
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) T,TR 
Manic Depression S 
No Time to Linger  TR 
Organic Matter TR 
Pagan Rituals S,TR 
Penitent Crack T,TR 
Pine Tree Crack T,TR 
PWB Arete S 
Repentance Crack, The T,TR 
Sex Weed T 
Strong Faith T,TR 
Strongman's Cooldown  T,TR 
Sunset Ascent S 
Swiss Cheese S,TR 
Turkish Revenge S,TR 
Two Hands of Prayer T,TR 
Zig-zag crack T,TR 
Zschiesche toprope problem TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Penitent Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Knoernschild 8/30/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,121
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Aug 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Pulling through the last few moves.


Penitent offers fun climbing. For the first half of the climb it's easy moving. When you reach the main crack about 20 ft from the top, that's where it gets a bit harder. The crack offers good finger and hand jams.


To the left of "Curse of the Drill". Start by moving up a slabby 10ft section. Then get into the bottom face/small crack. The small broken up crack has some nice finger jams. Move up to large ledge and continue up face using horizontal cracks and small feet. From here move into the main crack to top.


standard rack. medium tri-cams

Photos of Penitent Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rhoads on right hand variation of P Crack.
Rhoads on right hand variation of P Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Scrubbin' away
Scrubbin' away
Rock Climbing Photo: Penitent Crack 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Penitent Crack 5.7
Rock Climbing Photo: John K topping out on Penitent Crack.
John K topping out on Penitent Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: John K on first lead.
John K on first lead.

Comments on Penitent Crack Add Comment
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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 30, 2008

This climb was completely covered in moss and lichen. You couldn't see parts of the crack at the top from the ground. I spent about 2 hours scrubbing it clean. Then I sent it on sight.

It was a really fun climb. Offered good pro and fun moving.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 5, 2008

Thx James. I saw this route as a good opportunity to add another moderate climb to the Hollow. There aren't enough moderates in the area and I want more people to come here and climb so the routes stay cleaner.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
May 5, 2009

I lead this last fall and really enjoyed it. Especially the upper section. Way to go John. Fun to plug gear on this and it is all good and closely spaced...
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 22, 2009

Thx Burt. Glad to see others enjoying the route.
By Tradiban
Sep 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I led the right variation of this today, 5.9 and "R". Best to be top roped I think but fun moves.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 15, 2010

Nice nick. I looked at that variation when I cleaned this. It looked very unprotected.
By Zach Parsons
From: Tacoma, WA
Sep 8, 2014

I semi-accidentally ended up on the 5.9 variation, managed to get some semi-marginal gear in. That top out is... stressful.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Sep 18, 2014

Got back on this last weekend for the first time since my FA. Surprised it's still clean as a whistle. And the climbing was even better than I remembered. Love this climb! The upper crack section is quite good.
By Doorbluff
From: Stevens Point, WI
May 10, 2017

Led this yesterday. Really fun and still clean. Thinking about and finding the gear on this one was a blast, and different then other cracks I have climbed. Good stemming moves towards the top.

Gear summary: .75 Green BD low, then a blue BD nut, tricam (lots of horizontal options), yellow DMM offset, #2 BD Cam for the crack at the top, then anchor building in the top of the vertical crack, or walk back and use natural pro (large trees 15 ft. back).

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