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Reynolds Hill
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Bad Man with a Devil's Hand T 
Barf Bucket Traverse T 
Black Starr Chimney T,TR 
Bloodletting T 
Climb and Punishment T 
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Coffee Grinder T 
Connecticut Yankee T 
Cosmic Debris T 
Fat Man's Demise T 
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Glenda's Chimney T 
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Hung Like a Horse T 
I'd Rather Be In Philadelphia T 
Intergalatic Bong Rip T 
K.P. T 
Klink T 
Labyrinth T 
Maiden T 
Matron T 
Moor's Crossing T 
Peach Cobbler T 
Penis Dimension T 
Pooh Corner T 
Robert's Rectification T 
Serpentine T 
Sky Line T 
Spatial Relations T 
Time Quake T 
Tombstone Crack T 
Unknown left of Maiden T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Penis Dimension 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: [Peter Hollis and John Garson 1974]
Page Views: 6,882
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Penis Dimensions.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a great line with a wild crux. It is in the same alcove as Climb and Punishment and just to its right, merging with C&P after about 60 feet. Climb a nice, stemming handcrack. As it widens, brace yourself and fire the intimidating and not so obvious crux. A #3 Camalot (or larger) will protect the crux move at the 'pod.' I'll only give you one clue, don't layback.


Standard rack up to #3 Camalot.

Photos of Penis Dimension Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down into the wide slot.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down into the wide slot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Faber at the crux on Penis Dimension 5.10 at V...
Ben Faber at the crux on Penis Dimension 5.10 at V...

Comments on Penis Dimension Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 19, 2017
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I tried to lie back 3 times- climbing up to and down from the crux testing each possible hold before I figured it out and did it right. One of my partners just never got it, although she got Hung Like A Horse (5.11a). Height and reach might be a factor for this climb.

It was a fun crux, I'll let the mystery remain.
By Joe Collins
Aug 26, 2002

I led the crux the "mysterious" way, which felt like 5.9+ to me, yet a reach-challenged person will find it impossible to do that way. In any case, I guess I highly offended some local punter who felt compelled to scream up at me, "YOU HAVE TO STAY IN THE POD... YOU'RE OFF ROUTE!!"... a**hole. I hate to admit it, but I think punter-dude might be right after TRing it afterwards... I think the grade is for climbing the pod straight on which felt about like 10+ OW to me.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2005

Nothing is "off-route" outside.
By Scott Robertson
From: Portland, OR
Nov 21, 2005

Nothing is off-route outside huh...Don't tell that to Horsetooth Reservoir or England or anywhere else climbing is to be had 'outside' with limited resources. Besides, if you think it's on, and don't care about climbing it using the intended holds, use it, it's not our job to judge another person's climbng experience. Everything may be usable, but certainly, not everything is 'on'. Maybe it is ridiculous to say 'hey, that foot is off', but sometimes using and not using a hold makes a a climb completely different, either way, make sure we remember that the most important thing about climbing is having fun, not necessarily climbing hard or debating ratings. Haven't been on the route, just talking ethics and such.
By Rob Dillon
May 3, 2006

Re "the intended holds"

Just whose intentions are you speaking for here? Seems a bit presumptuous to impute the intentions of the one who made the rock.

Ethics affect the rock; style affects the climber.
By Steve Matous
May 25, 2006

FA: Peter Hollis and John Garson, 1974.
By Gay Jamie
Oct 20, 2008

Penis Dimension has got to be one of the greatest climbs the Voo has to offer. Every part of this climb is on, but I prefer to jam that crack all the way to the top. However, I have been know to stray from time to time and "Oh Yes" I do know how to have fun;0
By Jesse Ryan
Feb 23, 2009

Super duper trick beta in the second paragraph for the crux pod - do not read ahead if you want the true onsight. The trick beta advice IS neither 1) laybacking up the right side of the crack - which hasn't gotten anyone I know up the route, particularly on lead 2) stemming or climbing over to climb and punishment, which I feel is a variation on the climb 3) nor jamming the crack straight on, which is good and fine if you can IMHO.

BETA ALERT: Read no further if you do not want to be tainted by the super trick beta. Here goes: place a piece just before pod flares in right position (#3 Camalot for me a little, but not too deep, YMMV). Now get your last decent fist above piece with left hand, right hand on gaston duty. Milk right leg as bottom leg, free the left leg and bring it over your fist for a calf jam. Sit up, with help from the right arm gaston and somehow extracting your lower left arm. Once you sit up and get your body in the slot the hard bit is over. Tadaaaa!
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 20, 2009

The super trick beta is just to stack, which is not a trick at all but a go-to, everyday, standard offwidth technique....
By Deke Doty
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 3, 2013

I find it a perfect place for a couple "teacup stacks". Some Laramie dude was telling my partner, inverted kneelock? I'm too old to try that, love the teacups. We always called it Voo10a.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014

Ethics affect the rock; style affects the climber. What a great axiom, Rob! I will definitely remember this.
By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Sep 3, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Spoiler alert....

Are you still here?....

Are you sure?....

I warned you....

The inverted calf jam is the shit, crank super hard on the under-cling fist jam with your right hand, and then use your left to assist your foot into the right position if you aren't the most flexible person in the world (like me). Hook your left leg over the constriction and do a sit up. Choose your own adventure from there.
By Jeb Schenck
Apr 19, 2017

It was interesting to read all the comments about the crux. I tried to get the FA many times but could never get the crux moves figured out--nice descriptions of the wrong moves BTW. John G. told me how they did it, which never occurred to me. Think outside the box! Absolutely love the jams below the crux. One of the most fun I found in the whole Voo area.

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