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Penile Decay T 

Penile Decay 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Elder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Steve Elder on Jan 25, 2016

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Leaving the arete....the climbing gets harder for ...

Description 

This is the free version of the old aid route, Soft Space.
Pitch 1 (5.8): From the uphill saddle climb up obvious wide crack system using some bolts and larger sized cams for protection. The crux is located just below the belay ledge. Mind some loose blocks on the pitch. 80'
Pitch 2 (5.11d): Launch up the overhanging head wall, on good holds but with big reaches, to a rest at the arete. Continue up and right through several crux sections with more big reaches and some smaller holds. Follow the bolts up and finish the final very runout 5.7 section to the summit. The old aid bolts on this pitch have been replaced by Tyler Adams with solid modern bolts. They are still in exactly the same positions as the old bolts, so you will likely be skipping some on free lead. 130' of super pumpy climbing.

The first pitch is rather forgettable, the second pitch is totally awesome.

Location 

Start at uphill saddle

Protection 

Pitch 1, selection of cams .7"-3" and nuts, some bolts at top.
Pitch 2, 20 bolts


Photos of Penile Decay Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The cairn of rocks placed on the road on June 6, 2...
BETA PHOTO: The cairn of rocks placed on the road on June 6, 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Tis a little reachy. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
'Tis a little reachy. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the second pitch. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Low on the second pitch. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping the route
Rapping the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Horsecock Rock. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Horsecock Rock. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of original aid line. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
BETA PHOTO: Topo of original aid line. Courtesy of Tyler Adams

Comments on Penile Decay Add Comment
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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 25, 2016

Sweet, I'll have to get on this! I live only a few min from it, and actually looked at the pillar when I was out exploring the broken cliff across the valley this winter.
By Steve Elder
From: Durango
Jan 26, 2016

Hi Micah, glad to hear you're exploring the area. We actually did this route about two years ago and I've just gotten to writing it up. I live in Colorado now but it would be great to see someone do this and get another perspective on grade. It's just a guess. Cheers.
By Tom Holschuh
Jun 6, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This morning my climbing partner and I went in search of this route, so here's some current info.

To find the correct area, it is barely over 9 miles on Canyon Creek Rd. from Highway 20 to the "vague" pullout. The coordinates of the spire given in the description are dead on. The lime green ribbon is still there in the correct spot at the pullout, but it's hard to see in an Oregon forest. We left a piece of red webbing on the same tree (on the left side of the road) with the lime green ribbon, so it might be easier to find. From the parking spot, walk up the road about 100 yards, and we built a small cairn of rocks to more easily mark the beginning of the trail.

On the "trail," all the lime green ribbon is still there, along with four fixed lines to help with the steep portions of the hike up to the spire. Just go exploring, and you'll find your way.

The first pitch of the route currently has only two bolts and there is some chossy bits at the beginning. The upper pitch is the fun one and the bolts on this pitch are still looking great, but the rock is starting to deteriorate. I pulled off a small finger jug about halfway up, though other, larger jugs are well on their way to leaving the spire. When these finally break off, I think it might bump the route up a number grade, since it's already long reaches between the good holds. For now, I think pumpy 5.11/+ (with some searching for holds) is a good rating.

On top of the spire, there is a single bolt and the tree to belay off, with the rappel rings about ten feet off to the side. These are all in good condition. There is a nice place to sit as you belay up the second as well.

A huge thanks to the guys that set out the green ribbon and the fixed lines, in addition to the new bolts. The trek through the woods is totally worth doing the second pitch.

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