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Leaving the arete....the climbing gets harder for ...
This is the free version of the old aid route, Soft Space.
Pitch 1 (5.8): From the uphill saddle climb up obvious wide crack system using some bolts and larger sized cams for protection. The crux is located just below the belay ledge. Mind some loose blocks on the pitch. 80'
Pitch 2 (5.11d): Launch up the overhanging head wall, on good holds but with big reaches, to a rest at the arete. Continue up and right through several crux sections with more big reaches and some smaller holds. Follow the bolts up and finish the final very runout 5.7 section to the summit. The old aid bolts on this pitch have been replaced by Tyler Adams with solid modern bolts. They are still in exactly the same positions as the old bolts, so you will likely be skipping some on free lead. 130' of super pumpy climbing.
The first pitch is rather forgettable, the second pitch is totally awesome.
Start at uphill saddle
Pitch 1, selection of cams .7"-3" and nuts, some bolts at top.
Pitch 2, 20 bolts
'Tis a little reachy. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Low on the second pitch. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Horsecock Rock. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
BETA PHOTO: Topo of original aid line. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 25, 2016
Sweet, I'll have to get on this! I live only a few min from it, and actually looked at the pillar when I was out exploring the broken cliff across the valley this winter.
By Steve Elder
Jan 26, 2016
Hi Micah, glad to hear you're exploring the area. We actually did this route about two years ago and I've just gotten to writing it up. I live in Colorado now but it would be great to see someone do this and get another perspective on grade. It's just a guess. Cheers.