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Horsecock Rock
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Penile Decay T 

Penile Decay 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Elder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Steve Elder on Jan 25, 2016

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'Tis a little reachy. Courtesy of Tyler Adams

Description 

This is the free version of the old aid route, Soft Space.
Pitch 1 (5.8): From the uphill saddle climb up obvious wide crack system using some bolts and larger sized cams for protection. The crux is located just below the belay ledge. Mind some loose blocks on the pitch. 80'
Pitch 2 (5.11d): Launch up the overhanging head wall, on good holds but with big reaches, to a rest at the arete. Continue up and right through several crux sections with more big reaches and some smaller holds. Follow the bolts up and finish the final very runout 5.7 section to the summit. The old aid bolts on this pitch have been replaced by Tyler Adams with solid modern bolts. They are still in exactly the same positions as the old bolts, so you will likely be skipping some on free lead. 130' of super pumpy climbing.

The first pitch is rather forgettable, the second pitch is totally awesome.

Location 

Start at uphill saddle

Protection 

Pitch 1, selection of cams .7"-3" and nuts, some bolts at top.
Pitch 2, 20 bolts


Photos of Penile Decay Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leaving the arete....the climbing gets harder for ...
Leaving the arete....the climbing gets harder for ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the second pitch. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Low on the second pitch. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping the route
Rapping the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Horsecock Rock. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Horsecock Rock. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of original aid line. Courtesy of Tyler Adams
BETA PHOTO: Topo of original aid line. Courtesy of Tyler Adams

Comments on Penile Decay Add Comment
Show which comments
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 25, 2016

Sweet, I'll have to get on this! I live only a few min from it, and actually looked at the pillar when I was out exploring the broken cliff across the valley this winter.
By Steve Elder
From: Durango
Jan 26, 2016

Hi Micah, glad to hear you're exploring the area. We actually did this route about two years ago and I've just gotten to writing it up. I live in Colorado now but it would be great to see someone do this and get another perspective on grade. It's just a guess. Cheers.