REI Community
Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack A No Go T 
Curvy Crack T 
Easy Street S 
Escargot T,S 
Herring Breath T 
Hit and Run S 
Itchy and Scratchy S 
Penguin Lust S 
Spaceman Spiff S 
Totem Pole S 
Transmogrifier S 

Penguin Lust 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Mischler, the 80's
Page Views: 1,978
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)

  • 2014 nesting closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Incredible "main" face of the Roadcut.

    Killer technical pocket climbing. Sustained and thin. There are a couple of cruxes low; you'll need your footwork dialed to send them...

    Save some juice for the top...rockfall may have made this a bit harder.

    Location 

    The "you just can't miss it" orange face. Starts off the highest ledge system at Roadcut.

    Protection 

    Draws.


    Photos of Penguin Lust Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The brainchild of P.L.
    The brainchild of P.L.

    Comments on Penguin Lust Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jeff Gicklhorn
    From: Reno, NV
    Mar 15, 2015
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Classic, sustained route. This was luckily undamaged by the recent Totem Pile rockfall.
    By Caliza
    Sep 7, 2015

    This is the hardest "5.12c" I have ever been on. It honestly does not feel that much easier than Warp Factor. 5.12d in my opinion. A classic nonetheless.
    By FelicityMuth
    Oct 13, 2015

    Hardest part is getting the sequence dialed! Super fun route.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About