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Road Cut, The
Routes Sorted
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Crack A No Go T 
Curvy Crack T 
Easy Street S 
Escargot T,S 
Herring Breath T 
Hit and Run S 
Itchy and Scratchy S 
Penguin Lust S 
Spaceman Spiff S 
Totem Pole S 
Transmogrifier S 

Penguin Lust 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Mischler, the 80's
Page Views: 1,813
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007

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Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)

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  • Description 

    Incredible "main" face of the Roadcut.

    Killer technical pocket climbing. Sustained and thin. There are a couple of cruxes low; you'll need your footwork dialed to send them...

    Save some juice for the top...rockfall may have made this a bit harder.


    The "you just can't miss it" orange face. Starts off the highest ledge system at Roadcut.



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    By Jeff Gicklhorn
    From: Reno, NV
    Mar 15, 2015
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Classic, sustained route. This was luckily undamaged by the recent Totem Pile rockfall.
    By Caliza
    Sep 7, 2015

    This is the hardest "5.12c" I have ever been on. It honestly does not feel that much easier than Warp Factor. 5.12d in my opinion. A classic nonetheless.
    By FelicityMuth
    Oct 13, 2015

    If you're a 5"2 light person with tiny fingers and toes (like me) then it's probably not 12c. More like 12a. Hardest part is getting the sequence dialed!