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BETA PHOTO: Penguin Arete.
This is 5.11b or 5.9+ depending on which variation you use to start the climb. It has fun arete climbing on crisp, positive edges with the option of a difficult mantel start. Both variations would be four stars if it weren't for the easier section in the middle.
Gentoo variation (right start), 5.9+: climb the easy slab right of the start of Drunken Master
past two bolts. Step left to the slab/arete, and ascend it past two more bolts. Climb the easy corner until you can step right onto the face at a bolt, and follow the face and arete to a two bolt anchor.
Emperor variation (left start), 5.11b: follow a left-angling crack to a bolted overhang, do a difficult mantel, then follow Penguin Arete to the anchors.
Descent: rap with a 70m rope which barely reaches. Knot the ends!
Seven bolts and cams to 2.5 inches. Some long slings help minimize rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: Penguin Arete with Emperor, the 5.11b variation on...