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Dragon Enters the Corner T 
Drunken Master T 
Frog Prince, The T 
Heng Chuan Corner T 
My Turn T 
Penguin Arete T 
Treacherous T 
Vulgar Display of Power T 
Your Turn T 
Zig Zag Rope Drag T 

Penguin Arete 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: K. Duncan and D. Humphrey, 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Ken Duncan on Apr 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Penguin Arete.


This is 5.11b or 5.9+ depending on which variation you use to start the climb. It has fun arete climbing on crisp, positive edges with the option of a difficult mantel start. Both variations would be four stars if it weren't for the easier section in the middle.

Gentoo variation (right start), 5.9+: climb the easy slab right of the start of Drunken Master past two bolts. Step left to the slab/arete, and ascend it past two more bolts. Climb the easy corner until you can step right onto the face at a bolt, and follow the face and arete to a two bolt anchor.

Emperor variation (left start), 5.11b: follow a left-angling crack to a bolted overhang, do a difficult mantel, then follow Penguin Arete to the anchors.

Descent: rap with a 70m rope which barely reaches. Knot the ends!


This is left of Drunken Master in the center of the cliff.


Seven bolts and cams to 2.5 inches. Some long slings help minimize rope drag.

Photos of Penguin Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Penguin Arete with Emperor, the 5.11b variation on...
BETA PHOTO: Penguin Arete with Emperor, the 5.11b variation on...

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