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Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)

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Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.65238, -83.71935 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 177,936
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 29, 2009

Washington's Birthday

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Climber on KSB in the Red River Gorge


Another triumph of climber ownership, the PMRP is a 700-acre area in the southern section of the Red River Gorge. It is owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. More than 300 routes in 20 separate areas are available to climbers thanks to the efforts of the RRGCC.

Climbing in the PMRP began in the 1990s not long after the discovery of the Motherlode just east of the area. At the time, this sizeable tract of land was owned by the Pendergrass family descendents, and much of it was leased out for oil exploration. As climbers began developing the numerous crags in the area, the RRGCC worked toward an accommodation of the various public and private interests there. Finally, in 2004, the coalition purchased surface rights to the tract, ensuring continued climbing access.

As with Muir Valley, the other major climber-owned section of Red River Gorge, climbers must sign a liability waiver before climbing in the PMRP. For more information and rules on the area, go to the RRGCC web site.

Getting There 

To get to the PMRP, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Depending on the area you're heading to, turn off on either Fixer Road or Bald Rock Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment.

Please slow down when driving past homes on Bald Rock Fork Road (aka the road that leads from 498 to the Motherlode/PMRP). The speed limit on this road is 10 mph and driving too quickly creates dust which negatively affects the residents along the road.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the PMRP may be problematical without a high-clearance vehicle.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.3 miles from here

348 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',49],['3 Stars',170],['2 Stars',111],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP):
27 Years of Climbing   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   The Gallery
Cheaper Than a Movie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Chica Bonita Wall
A Brief History of Climb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 100'   The Gallery
Breakfast Burrito   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 80'   Drive-By Crag
Fire and Brimstone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   Drive-By Crag
Toker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Bob Marley
Johnny B. Good   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Gallery
Whip-Stocking   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Drive-By Crag
Amarillo Sunset   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   North 40
Random Precision   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Gallery
Gold Rush   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   The Gallery
Check Your Grip   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Drive-By Crag
Dogleg   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   Bob Marley
Break the Scene   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Gallery
Samurai   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   North 40
Demon Seed   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Bob Marley
The Force   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Dark Side
Dracula '04   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Purgatory
Kaleidescope   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Drive-By Crag
Angry Birds   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Drive-By Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)

Featured Route For Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)
Rock Climbing Photo: A classic climb on a Gorgeous Arete

Kentucky Flu 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : What About Bob Wall
Climb the gently sloping face on small holds to a large hueco rest. Continue from the hueco out onto a beautiful arete, making use of micro-crimps and knobs as you make your way up this classic route. Don't forget to turn around and take in the gorgeous view from the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Shire in Red River Gorge
The Shire in Red River Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe making his way up "A Wave New World"...
Joe making his way up "A Wave New World"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jen on Johnny B. Good, 5.11a
Jen on Johnny B. Good, 5.11a
Rock Climbing Photo: Sore Heel Hollow parking lot sign
Sore Heel Hollow parking lot sign
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom DeFilippo on the rock after a couple of years ...
Tom DeFilippo on the rock after a couple of years ...

Comments on Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Add Comment
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By Felix Duvallet
Apr 29, 2014
The steep road down the hill to the Sore Heel parking area is in pretty bad shape, and cars without high clearance will have trouble going down (or back up). According to the RRGCC the Sore Heel hill is "no longer sustainable and will not be maintained going forward" (see the RRGCC FAQ).

However, they have just put in a new parking area that is a nice flat walk to the sore heel parking. See the RRGCC blog post for more details. Park there instead of trying to fit at the top of the hill.
By elisgroves
Mar 12, 2015
Hi all, just posting to say I lost my phone recently, not entirely sure where but possibly in the Flat Holler parking lot. It is an HTC One and in a silver case. If found please call 6038098809 to return it. Thank you
By kenr
Nov 13, 2015
The turnoff from route 498 onto the gravel road for Flat Holler and Sore Heel and Bald Rock psrking is at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.6363 W83.7160).

The new Flat Holler parking in on the left side (just past the turn-off right going up steep-ish hill to the Sore Heel parking) at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.6466 W83.7200). From there can walk about 500 feet back East on the road to the new trailhead for Sore Heel, turn Left and hike North uphill about 0.25 mile to the Sore Heel parking, and from there to your chosen crag.
By Spencer Scott
From: Kansas City, MO
Apr 4, 2016
The new parking lot is actually faster to get to by an easy, flat hike out than the problematic/high clearance required Sore Heel parking area. Do the road a favor by hiking in and out.
By Douglas97
Apr 11, 2016
The south guidebook directions for going to Coal Bank Hollow are somewhat misleading. The written directions are correct, but the map has a road drawn and labeled Fixer Road. That road is not Fixer road, but Cave Fork road. Fixer road is north of Cave Fork road, and turns off before Koops. Cave Fork road is all gravel with poor conditions, don't take it. The Oil Tank with a smiley face is also mislabeled in the book. Here is a corrected map. The correct road still runs off the map, but this should help.
By Andy P.
From: Wisconsin
Jul 27, 2016
Just want to second the recc that you part at Flat Holler parking in order to access the Sore Heel parking area, it truly is faster than driving to the Sore Heel parking. Also, the road to Sore Heel lot is getting pretty bad. It is accessible, but even a small bit of rain while you are out climbing and getting back up the hill would be difficult for any car, and probably not possible without good tires - you might be stranded overnight or be setting up a hauling system for your own vehicle! Really, park at the faster and safer option of the Flat Holler lot, too bad the guidebook is just a couple of years too old to include this tip.