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Pencilneck Geek T 
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Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Pencilneck Geek 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Brad White, Dick Peterson Sept. 18 1982
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Pencilneck Geek flake(s), 6-8 ft right of the ...


I'm not sure how any Pitch#2 that moves right from the top of the flakes/corner "goes" at only 5.2 (as some guidebooks purport), but the "Variation" as described is very nice and maintains grade interest. VERY close to a 3 star climb, if only P1 wasn't a "one move wonder". (Still, it is a "neat" move!)

START- About 50 ft above where the the main path meets the slab is a long, arching overlap. From the left end of the overlap the climb "Building Steam" climbs the first weakness, a wide, sort-of-flaring inside corner with a fixed wire nut. "Pencilneck" climbs through the arch at the second weakness, about 6 to 8 feet right of "Building Steam".

P1- Climb up the slab headed for the flakes at the top of the arch/overlap about 6-8 ft right of "Building Steam" [the wide corner with the fixed wire nut.] (photo) Gear is possible both below and above. Climb though on the flakes ( crux, 5.6 - 5.7) and then up and right, gaining the right end of the tree ledge. Belay at any tree on the left. 130-140 ft 5.6 - 5.7 some 5.3 "R" on lower slab.

P2- Per Webster...Climb the easy flakes/left-facing corner directly above, then move back right and green moon scoops to the top. 170 ft 5.2 (?) [ Note: Perhaps going higher before moving back right keeps it 5.2-5.3 ?? ]

2017 addendum I think this is the original P2 route: Climb the easy flakes/left-facing corner. At its top, continue a up and left-ish 20 +/- ft to where a wide ledge/ramp leads back to the right. Protect behind the top flake (med. cam) and then continue right making 5.4 +/- friction moves to the aforementioned "moon scoops". Run it out to the bolted anchor (you are above the level of the #1 Camalot hole mentioned in "Pushing the Pencil") or continue another 120-140 ft to the top.

"Pushing the Pencil" variation: maintains the approximate grade of P1, and (like P2 of its neighbor Rubberneck) actually offers nicer climbing than P1. Climb the (same) easy flakes/left facing corner directly above to a stance at the top. Make ONE step right to a 1-to-2-inch ledge, then up the thin, 2 ft high flake (5.6+ / 5.7 poor gear, only a small nut seems to work) THEN up the green moon scoops, passing a "hole" for a #1 [Red] Camalot located a bit left of the easiest line. Look a bit right for the two-bolt anchor. 95 ft 5.6+ / 5.7. (As climbed by R Hall & S Matz, circa 2014-15)

"Just Another Variation" : Start a few ft right of the regular route and a few ft left of Rubberneck; climb directly up on thin but clean white granite with some sharp incuts, 5-6 ft right of the flake of "Pushing the Pencil" variation. [photo] 5.7+/ 5.8- Top Rope off the Rubberneck anchor, or "X".

P3 (starting from bolt anchor)- "To the woods on top" 100 +/- ft 5.2-5.3 R/X Look for a large pine tree with an rap anchor.

Descent - From the end of P2, Lower or rap back to the tree island, then rap off the large tree (the top of "Making Steam") to the ground.
Descent to Littoral Zone - From the dbl bolt anchor at the end of P2, rap with a 70m rope diagonally right to the double bolt belay/rap anchor at the end of P1 of Littoral Zone. Rapping down from here requires a 2nd rap (from the station by the little maple tree, P1 of Perfect Wave) BUT from the Littoral Zone anchor you can TR nearly all of that route's P1.

From the end of P3 A single 60m makes it from the big pine tree to the bolt anchor.


Normal rack; small & medium cams for the P1 crux, smaller stuff for the P2 "crux"

Photos of Pencilneck Geek Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo P2 Pencilneck Geek (Variation ?)
BETA PHOTO: Topo P2 Pencilneck Geek (Variation ?)
Rock Climbing Photo: TR-ing "Just Another Variation".  The fl...
BETA PHOTO: TR-ing "Just Another Variation". The fl...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Pushing the Pencil" P2 variation to Pen...
BETA PHOTO: "Pushing the Pencil" P2 variation to Pen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P2 of Pencilneck Geek - The thin flake of...
BETA PHOTO: Start of P2 of Pencilneck Geek - The thin flake of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Pencilneck crux (at overlap on P...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Pencilneck crux (at overlap on P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the Left side of the large overlap
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the Left side of the large overlap

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