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Penance 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kenny Parker
Season: October - March (only when the water is down)
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Mar 15, 2014

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I can't believe I keep climbing routes at long point that are this good. STICK CLIP the first bolt and start about 12 feet to the right. Climb up through the corner to a mega jug then get your techy traverse on. Once at the first bolt pull up through the sandpaper-like rock and use the finger lock with some good holds intermingled. Clip the second bolt and then make a few lock offs to the corner above then pull the roof onto the slab. The top of this thing gets runoff and can be quite dirty; all of the holds are there but can be hard to hold on to.

Location 

Climbers left from the beach access about 50 yards past big bang and right past scientific paws. You will see the beautiful white rock and the traverse.

Protection 

6 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor at the top.


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