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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Broussard and Jim Thornburg, 1988
Page Views: 1,821
Submitted By: jared toettcher on Sep 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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This climb shares its first two bolts with Walkin' a Thin Line (5.10c). After the second bolt, traverse right and climb up to the nearest bolt. Continue up over a flake and bulge to an easier slab climb finish. The crux (and only real 5.12a section) is pretty reachy, and runs between the 3rd and 4th bolts.


6 bolts finishing to a 2 bolt anchor

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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 22, 2002

I don't know who did this route first, but it could well have been Harrison Dekker. He did a route that sounds like its in this area that he called "Dream of White Porsches", and he and Scott Frye were developers of many of the hard routes in this area.

Jim Thornburg would know...Jim?
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 27, 2002

'Dreams of White Porshes' goes closer to 5.13b, and is located a few routes to the right of Pelicans.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Mar 31, 2003

Maybe next time... Moves from the ground are very interesting if you stay away from the easier beginning of Walk a Thin Line. From ground, traverse up and left and then straight up to large incut ledge. A mantle and reach gets you to tiny face holds just over bulge. Where to go here? I didn't see anything up so I traversed right with feet on the large ledge on tiny hand holds and then tried to reach to small right facing corner. Maybe it goes this way. Too steep, tiny, and blown to make a good attempt. IF it doesn't go out this far right, then maybe there is a hold high up hidden. Thus the "Very reachy, footless bulge between 3rd and 4th bolts." comment in the guide. Where I was off to the right was pretty much this too! Upper part looks fun, similar to Walk a Thin Line, thin face climbing.
By jim thornburg
Feb 10, 2006

John (Johnny B) Broussard made the first ascent (tr) of this route in the 1987. He and I did the first leads the following year.

It's desperate!
By Vlad S
Jul 20, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Pretty nice route! Lots of tiny feet to choose from at the crux and your choice will make the V5 crux either desperate or completely impossible. Of course, if you have mutant reach all that doesn't matter. The upper section of 5.10+ edging is some of the most enjoyable climbing at Mickey's. This route is a step up from Sex Porpoises in terms of difficulty.
By Julian Bobilev
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Maybe not a four star route but I felt like I needed to give it some love and bump up the star rating a bit, haha. The crux is pretty long and sustained and the tiny holds on it are the crispest/least greasy holds I've felt at Mickey's yet. I really like this climb.

The runout slab portion after the crux flows extremely well on small, but very frictiony holds. Requires you to keep your cool after pulling through the hard crux.
By obiss
Oct 18, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nasty crux!
By Caliza
Jan 1, 2017

This is the worst route at Main Rock!

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