REI Community
The Bulges
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beached Whale T,TR 
Black Bulge, The T,TR 
Central Descent Route T,TR 
Dawn's Light T,TR 
First Lead Corner T,TR 
FUBAR T,TR 
Great Falls Bulge T,TR 
Great Falls Bulge - Var: Right Hand Start T,TR 
Great Falls Bulge - Var: Super Bulge T,TR 
Greyish Face T,TR 
Little Bulge Descent Route T,TR 
Narrow Notch T,TR 
Narrow Notch - Var: Corner T,TR 
Orange Groove T,TR 
Peg's Progress T,TR 
Short Line T,TR 
Wild Thing T,TR 

Peg's Progress 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Brian Malone on Oct 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
4-15-2017

Description 

Start: On the upstream end of a large cliff containing numerous bulges is a left facing corner leading up to a sloping ledge.
Climb corner to sloping ledge. Traverse right to a small left facing corner. Climb corner and easy route to the top.
Note: This was a standard lead in the 40's and 50's.

Location 

On the upstream end of a large cliff containing numerous bulges is a left facing corner leading up to a sloping ledge.

Protection 

Generally Top-Roped these days. Trees on top serve as anchor.


Comments on Peg's Progress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robert Michael
May 3, 2015

Climbed this today on TR while also checking out possibilities for leading. Easy route, though a kind of thrilling exposed move working up and around the bulge after the short traverse. Of note was the fact that a bat had taken up residence in the crack that is crucial to keeping that spot, and the climb, at 5.4. My son climbed first and saw the bat. Not wanting to put his hand in the crack, he created some kind of workaround that made it more like 5.7 or 5.8. The second person heard the bat and decided she wanted to come down. The third and fourth (I was fourth) just went for it and never thought about it. Maybe the bat was sufficiently spooked by then.

So if you climb this anytime close to my posting date, look for the bat or just make the move and know where the nearest hospital is.
By Bill Randolph
Oct 17, 2015

Nice easy route, but hard to protect with a top rope because it traverses along its full length at about 60 degrees. Without an additional directional anchor, the top-roped climber is basically free soloing the first half. Might work better as a lead climb, though I'm not sure about the rock quality.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About