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Peggy Sue's First Time T 
Social Circle Slut S 

Peggy Sue's First Time 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff, Walt Wehner, Shems Baker-Jud, Max Minnerop(?)
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Wa3lt on Jan 1, 2009

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Climber following the FA of Peggy Sue's First Time...

Description 

This is the striking hand crack just to the east (by about 10') of the north side of the pedestrian/bike bridge over the canyon. There's a ratty anchor (installed by yours truly) that can be spotted with sharp eyes, about 40' below the edge of the cliff.

I have no recollection of what we named it, or who led the pitch (I do remember drilling the anchor, though). You can top out with a second (very chossy) pitch of 5.8ish climbing.

Location 

Rappel in from the pedestrian bridge, look for the hand crack on the north side of the canyon.

Protection 

The rock is softish, so I've given it PG13. Not sure if pro would stay in there or not, so be careful.


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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 9, 2009

Hey there, I lead it and it was someone other than those listed who followed the pitch, but not Jason, he was off, I think with Max doing some fist crack down on the otherside of the canyon. Wa3lt did drill the anchor, its a fixed hex and a drilled pin...I think.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This one is actually pretty good; would be considered decent for the grade at White Rock or Capulin. Not as crumbly as the other handful of forgettable chossy cracks I've climbed in this canyon.
The anchor is a bolt & a pin (with no webbing or chains to rap from). For the 2nd pitch back to the bridge: either climb a thin crack with small gear to the right, or a dirty-looking chimney directly under the bridge that might take some small gear in the back; both are likely more serious than the 1st pitch of hands.

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