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Peer Bastard 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Nathan Hadley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: mlloyd on Jan 26, 2016

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Here is a route photo to show the variation. Purpl...

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  • Description 

    Finally after years the bolted line that deviates right from the end anchors of Peer Pressure (listed as a project in the newest guidebook) has been done. It's a bit of a contrived, squeeze job. With that said, it has fantastic moves that are a solid bump in difficulty to the 13a to its left. From the anchors, stay right, clipping the two bolt variation before returning to Peer 42. This felt easy for 13b but much harder than the 13a to its left.

    I don't know who bolted this line. It could be the late and great Richard Wright or Tod Anderson (who climbed the left variation).


    Climb Peer Pressure to the anchors. Instead of staying left here as one would to continue on Peer 42, bust straight right to a slopey undercling, making a hard move into a small crimper that is obvious by the anchors.... From here, climb straight up the steep wall on perfect edges and crimps clipping the draws out right rather than left. At some points, due to the squeezey-ness of this route, it would be possible to climb left back into Peer 42. Don't do that. Avoid the left arete, and enjoy the large moves on the exposed feeling face. Finish on the same anchors as Peer 42.


    14 bolts.

    Photos of Peer Bastard Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Lloyd on the second ascent.
    Matt Lloyd on the second ascent.

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