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Peeper's Rock South Headwall S,TR 
Peeping Tom S 

Peeper's Rock South Headwall 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Jul 17, 2017

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Description 

This route had OLD bolts and hangers on it until very recently when it received new glue-ins.

One could boulder the cave below the easier start (I think it goes at V6), but one usually steps off the adjacent boulder about 15 feet above the ground/tide and immediately pulls through the overhang to ascend an easier face that has another interesting move or two near the top.

The moves off the deck are the fun/hard part - rope or otherwise, it's a little invigorating to step of a ledge and onto an overhang above a treacherous fall.

Location 

.The bolts are visible from the base area on the north side of the Main rock. The climb is just above/left of a pretty impressive overhang on the south side of peepers rock. Stays dry (most) all the time due to its elevated start point.
.Get down by rapping or lowering off the anchors

Protection 

Now 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with a ramp ring.

You can set up a top rope after doing the (stiff) 5.9 on the East Face, Peeping Tom.

Stick clip, or being taller than about 6'3" recommended to clip the first bolt. Given that that's the crux, you're basically soloing through the crux above a nasty fall otherwise.


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By Danny Herrera
From: San Bruno, California
Jul 18, 2017

Fun stuff. Everyone was looking at us like we were crazy for doing this, as they waited in some long line to hangdog on TR for mickeys

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