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Peelin' Feelin' 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Nathan Brown and Lee Carter
Season: Fall-Winter
Page Views: 2,021
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Dec 18, 2013

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Mind control! T keeping his head screwed on straig...


One of the easier routes on the main face, but don't let it fool you. This one makes you work for it, wishing the next bolt was just a little closer. While the bolts are well spaced, it is by no means a dangerous route, despite what your butt may be telling you.

There is a direct start that comes in from the left with two bolts and one finger sized piece of gear. It is a stout variation, but preferred if you don't have the #6 camalot or don't like offwidths. Getting off the ground is tricky and spicy. The spiciness ends after you clip the first bolt, but the rest of the climbing is thin and sustained. It was suggested that it was 11b, but I would call it closer to 11c/d.

Start at the obvious left-facing offwidth corner. This corner often runs, but can be aided. Power up the corner and onto the face above. You will reach a slabby ledge with a horizontal crack that runs across it and up the right eventually turning into a vertical crack. It is imperative that you belay here on the horizontal. P2, step up and left trending to the first bolt. Once at the first bolt the wall becomes thin and technical crystals and knobs. Enjoy the wild ride to the crux just below a steep bulge. Get past this and get psyched for the final crux of a sustained smear fest. Once past here, enjoy the easy but runout romp straight up in a brown water groove with big holds. Step left to get to the anchors just to the right of a large water streak. There is small gear out right here as a directional to protect your second from a potential swing after unclipping the last bolt.


Look for the obvious left-facing offwidth corner.


A #6 camalot is mandatory! Nothing smaller will protect the opening sequence, which is difficult and sustained. Bring mostly small gear from .5 and below. A few QD's for the bolts and some long runners to keep things smooth. All hardware is updated and SS. A two-bolt anchor at the top. Rappel straight down it's neighboring route Squeelin' Feelin', just next to the water streak to reach the second set of anchors. 2 60m ropes will get you down.

Photos of Peelin' Feelin' Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2. Photo credit: T.
Pitch 2. Photo credit: T.
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch of Peelin' Feelin', with surprisi...
The second pitch of Peelin' Feelin', with surprisi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious left-facing offwidth corner. Bring you...
BETA PHOTO: The obvious left-facing offwidth corner. Bring you...

Comments on Peelin' Feelin' Add Comment
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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Jan 13, 2014

this is about the closest introduction to the main wall climbing you can get. good route
By nbrown
From: western NC
Nov 22, 2014

There is a harder 2 bolt variation just left of the wide corner. It goes at about 11b or so and is a good alternative if the crack is wet or if you don't have big cams. Also, there is an un-named 11b/c route that climbs straight off the anchor (right of Peelin's second pitch) to a separate anchor -- This is fun but not as good as Peelin'.
By cam dodds
Nov 18, 2015

First time climbing on table rock, have wanted to all my life. This route has a little spice to it, thougtht provoking (maybe i just don't climb enough consistently), nice to not be looking at chalk marks, a brush might be nice to bring next time. A number 5 can protect the first 10ft. I did not feel that the bulge was the crux on P2, overall sustained until romp to the top. Little run out to the top, huh? One of the best belays around! would love to explore more in the area. fun stuff.

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