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Island Express? S 
Pee Wee's First Bolt S,TR 

Pee Wee's First Bolt 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: unknown, Pee Wee?
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The biggest challenge may be finding this rock. From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up. Choose the South drainage. Hike 20 minutes or so. Find this rock just past Java Dome. Scramble up and around some boulders to past the South face of Java Dome and find Bali Dome abutting the right side of Java Dome. This route is the 2nd route from the left on this slab. Start on a gravelly bench. The 1st route may be hard to see.

This is a very runout and scary route that may invite the unwary beginner. Beware. The belayer should be ready to pull in lots of rope in the event of a fall. Protection is mostly mental. 4 (or 5) bolts (mostly in the beginning of the route) grace this 200+ foot pitch. Despite the topo in P. Hubbel's South Platte guide, the anchors are much more than 160 feet up. There is a significant runout above the 3rd bolt and an even more significant runout above the 4th bolt. Yes, it is slabbing, but I don't recommend falling. There is a left variation above the 3rd bolt, but it is better to smear straight between the 3rd and 4th bolts. We simul-climbed about 30 feet to reach the 2 bolt anchor and not to belay off a single bolt. Natural protection is very limited.

Per James: there is a 5th bolt. If you go straight past the 5th bolt, you can reach trees at ~200'.
Rap 180 feet angling right, well right of the route to a bench. Scramble down from here.

Protection 

4 or 5 QDs, 230 foot rope, or simulclimb.


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By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Apr 8, 2007

Yea, I wish I had the lack of fear as the first ascentionist on this route. It was scary. Be aware of the loose flake between 2nd and third bolt to climber's left.
By James
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The route has five bolts. If you go right after the fourth bolt toward the Island Express anchor, you will probably miss the fifth bolt. With a 70 meter rope, we had approximately 30 feet of rope left over going straight up past the fifth bolt to the trees. You can walk off to the right from the trees or walk down and right (may want to rope up) to the Island Express anchor (two ropes).
By Sylvia
Aug 29, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Wish we had read the description, but we went for it knowing it was 5.7 and being comfortable with slab run out. Very disconcerting that there is NO ANCHOR at the top and that two ropes are needed for rappel. If walking off, bring approach shoes as the granite ball bearings are nasty.

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