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Pedra Escrita / Writing Stone

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Pedra Escrita / Writing Stone Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,000'
Location: -10.15685, 14.7511 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 452
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Pat M on Jul 21, 2014
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Dogging a bit on the FA with the peanut gallery in...

Description 

There are two main rock formations, roughly 100 feet tall with several spectacular cracks on them. You can find shade on at least one side of the rock at any time of day. Village is only 100m away, so climbing always attracts a crowd of about 20-30 local kids who like to theorize about what kind of magic you are using to get up the rock. The rock is sacred in the local village. There are rumors that there is anything from diamonds to a water spring on top (although mysteriously the water doesn't fall off the top of the rock??). When I first summited the rock, there was a lot of curiosity as to what was at the top. They were somewhat disappointed when I told them that all I saw was a small tree and some lizards.

Getting There 

From Luanda, take the road East through Catete to Dondo. About an hour after crossing the Kwanza river leaving Dondo towards Quibala, the 100 ft tall rock is obvious on the left side of the road. Park at the small village on either side of the road and walk up through the village to the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 41.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Pedra Escrita / Writing Stone
Rock Climbing Photo: Dogging a bit on the FA with the peanut gallery in...

Roadside Attraction 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Africa : Angola : Pedra Escrita / Writing Sto...
Somebody needs to come here and visit who has more thin-tips skills than me. This right-leaning finger crack is incredible, but starts off with about 12 feet of #0-1 TCU sized crack that I just don't have the skills to free. I'm guessing it will go free at solid 5.12 thin crack. After that, the crack expands to perfect fingers thru tight hands as you get higher. The angle also eases off slightly in the middle then gets vertical again at the top. The business ends at a small ledge, with...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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