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Owls Head Mountain
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L to R R to L Alpha
Breeze Crack T 
Central AC T 
Hooters T 
Owl Crack T,TR 
Peckers T 
Wind Song T 
Unsorted Routes:

Peckers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Justin Serpico and Mike Hazard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: J. Serpico on Jun 2, 2015

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Description 

Attempting to keep feet dry, climb the finger crack in the corner and traverse right a step or two under the overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) and climb either or both of the parralel cracks above to the 4th class terrain below the summit. Scramble the remaining 20ft to the top. (first ascent stemmed both cracks due to them being filled with dirt, moss and trees. once clean it may be possible to climb either crack). It is possible to build an anchor directly over climb, but far back from the cliff edge, at the summit with 3 mid size cams.

Location 

Start 10ft right of Breeze Crack at a right facing wet corner with a low overhang about 12ft up. Walk off to the climbers left.

Protection 

The crux is low but the gear is good above the crux. the cracks above are still being cleaned and may be difficult to protect. Gear: Mostly nuts and finger size cams up to #1 camalot. For the anchor on the summit approximately .75, 1, and 2 camalot sized cams will build a bomber anchor. There are no trees anywhere near the top. Gear only.


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