REI Community
Deadman's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chasin' Skirt T 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Head Stack T 
Mocha Chocolate Yaya T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 
Unknown 11 T 


YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ruckman and Olson, 1988
Page Views: 2,894
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brian Milhaupt on pitch 2

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I encountered just about everything a desert crack has to offer; thin parts, steep parts, long sheer jamming, crazy flakes, and offwidthing. These two pitches could easily be combined into one spectacular 195' pitch. Pitch 1 5.10 hands, 45'. Pitch 2 is wide hands for 100', followed by flakes with good pro in the crack behind them. After the flakes is a thin bulge leading to a Crack of Fear like offwidth that will make you contemplate jumping for the anchors. Watch for a loose block just before the flakes. Two rope decent.


Sizes in BD Camalot: one #1, several #2, 8ish #3, 1 #4 for the short OW before the anchors

Comments on Peccadillo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 13, 2002

I'd add about 4 Red Bulls to the gear list for this awesome route!
By powerandrubber
Dec 3, 2011

Finally got around to doing this awesome route. 5 stars for sure but there's a little sand and choss avoidance adventure as it doesn't get gang banged like the creek (thankfully). For finding it don't follow DR (it's technically correct but overly complicated directions). Simply set the odometer to 0 when turning onto long canyon from potash and go 1.2 miles. Pull over and look for an obvious orange talus slope/gully cutting through the chinle cliff bands. Go up this slope to the base and walk left a couple hundred yards and look for the plaque and a long wide hands splitter with flakes toward the top. It's a good cold weather route but does go in the shade early afternoon in Nov. One mega pitch is definitely the way to go. The 1st pitch is really short and only has only 1 old bolt. 8-10 blue camalots would be nice though it would take a couple 3.5 camalots in places. (3) gold, (1) red, and an old 4 or new 5. Classic.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

10 #3's wouldn't go unused on this excellent route!
By Patrick Kingsbury
Nov 24, 2014

Did this today and kinda wished I looked here first as doing it as a single pitch with only 3 #3s was slightly more than a bit run out. 6 or more would be nice to have.

Classic pitch though for sure.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About