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Pearls Before Swine 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Malony, George Rosenthal & Tim Wolfe
Page Views: 3,050
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 5, 2004

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95% smearing

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  • Description 

    Direct finish to the last pitch of Pentapitch. Tenuous, steep slab moves lead to interesting inverted edges. From the middle anchor on the last pitch of Pentapitch head up and slightly right following the bolts.


    6 quickdraws and chain anchors. It is best to lead this in one pitch from the giant ledge. No chance of factor 2 fall that way, as the first crux is between the middle anchor and the first bolt of this pitch.

    Photos of Pearls Before Swine Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Inverted edges...
    Inverted edges...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Loving those awesome hands...
    Loving those awesome hands...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the unknown 5.10c
    On the unknown 5.10c

    Comments on Pearls Before Swine Add Comment
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    By Vince Romney
    Jun 7, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. I met the guy while toproping at Strategem(first name Brian) who put it up . He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you are truly the slab monster...
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 2, 2005

    I think Tim Wolfe and pat maloney put up this bolted finish to Pentapitch, not anyone named Brian?I can't remember the name, though.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Aug 8, 2005
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Great line that adds another fun slab pitch to Neuromancer/Nubbins lines. A little insecure getting to the first bolt, to say the least. I just kept thinking factor 2 fall, factor 2 fall. Beyond that the climbing is consistent, fun, non-LCC slab.
    By Tim Wolfe
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 2, 2006
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Pat Malony, George Rosenthal and I put this route up a few years ago. A jewel right in our face for years. No particular name, just a great slab climb without the serious runnouts on other slabs (it was rap drilled so we decided it needed to be fairly safe). I have climbed it 4 times. I think it is about 10c, definately harder than Fin arete or Kermits Wad, a bit easier than Angels Ladder or Dorsal Fin.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jun 2, 2006
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Come on Tim, give us a name.
    By steve santora
    Oct 15, 2006

    I've climbed this route several times, usually after doing the final pentapitch route. Rap down to the chains and give it a go....I've always wondered what this route is and would agree with the 10 c rating again at the first bolt area....Great Job Tim
    By Patrick Maloney
    Oct 19, 2009

    George Rosenthal Gave this route the name "Pearls Before Swine" the day of the first ascent.
    If DR. Wolfe is in agreement i think we should let George have the final word on this one. A solid 10c.
    By Danie White
    From: SLC, UT
    Sep 27, 2014

    Fun and precarious all at once. While this is quite well bolted by LCC standards, the biggest spacing is between bolts 1&2, which makes you feel like you'll dive bomb your belayer if you peel there and they are stationed at the closest anchor. So there's another reason for belaying down lower.
    By Jaron a
    From: SLC
    Aug 23, 2017

    Great sustained slabbin' and thin face climbing. It's comforting to climb an lcc slab that is so well protected.

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