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Lower Peanuts
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Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller  T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Peanuts 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Erikson, H. Barber, 1973
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 5,597
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
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Near the bottom by the dead tree.

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  • Description 

    On the Northwest Face of Lower Peanuts Wall, locate a few dead trees leaning against the lower section. Just down and left from these is a left-leaning ramp that can be scrambled to a good ledge, some 70' from the ground. Move down and left on this ledge until a shallow, left-facing dihedral, which curls right to become a flake-roof. A crack about 10' right of there goes up to intersect the dihedral where it bends to the right to become the afore mentioned roof. This crack is the start of Peanuts.

    From this position, a few bolted routes are visible. To the right you can see The Scared and the Profane (5.13) and Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12), some distance down and to the left, Blows Against the Empire (5.11) is visible.

    Start up the crack, arching left to follow it to the intersection of the dihedral and roof. Place gear and step left across the overhang, going a few moves further left through underclings before getting gear again. This is the crux. Once a vertical crack is available, begin moving up again until a good ledge is reached.

    Go up and right on the ledge to place gear or belay on bolts. Rap from the fixed station or finish on Forbidden Planet (5.10d, sport) Wired (5.9) or Dihedral (5.9-). There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the vertical crack, so there is no need go right across the ledge system to get down. It's 100 feet or a little less to the ground from the anchor.

    Protection 

    Nuts and cams to 2".

    The crux pro is reasonable but not at your chest. As such, this route is safe but not a great route to press your level on.


    Photos of Peanuts Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the traverse.
    Setting up for the traverse.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Heading for the anchors.
    Heading for the anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The hands-free rest before starting out on the lef...
    The hands-free rest before starting out on the lef...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck starting the finger traverse (not quite a ha...
    Chuck starting the finger traverse (not quite a ha...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck in the headlock. There's a hard sequence get...
    Chuck in the headlock. There's a hard sequence get...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crista on the crux traverse.
    Crista on the crux traverse.
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the crux traverse...
    On the crux traverse...

    Comments on Peanuts Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 17, 2017
    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    May 23, 2003

    Fun route. Be sure to wedge your body behind the over-hanging flake and enjoy a perfect no-hands rest before you tackle the traverse. The final crack up to the anchor felt more difficult than the crux traverse; steep finger locks with insecure feet.

    Be careful of loose rocks when pulling your rope if you rap. I pulled a few grapefruit sized rocks off and almost crushed a few friends. Sorry guys!

    Also, Rossiter's guide suggests scrambling up to the ledge below the 5.7 climbing and belaying there. My partner belayed from the ground and it worked out fine. 100' to the anchor.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jul 19, 2003

    Can be led with a set of nuts and a couple sets of TCU's. If you wanted, you could place pro every 2-3 feet on the traverse. Don't let the above comments scare you off, give it a go.
    By clint dillard
    From: Louisville, Co
    Jul 3, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    The route felt on the easy side of 5.9 to me and the pro is great. The crux is short and the finger crack at the end is really fun. There are some small foot holds that, if used, decrease the difficulty.
    By patrick kadel
    Aug 19, 2007
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I did not read this site prior to climbing this today and looking up from the base I was not sure what holds there could possible be after the flake. I had more doubts than usual. Then, a short hand traverse put the biggest smile on my face. The vertical crack going to the anchors had some additional fun moves. It may be short and have an uninspiring start but this was a fun climb for me. I think not knowing of the hand traverse made it even sweeter, so don't read this.
    By Mark Cushman
    From: Cumming, GA
    Oct 24, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    To clarify, there is a very nicely placed rap anchor on top of P1 of Peanuts. You can climb up to the anchor then lower off 100' to the ground. Close the system and have the belayer tie in or knot the end of the rope! Fun climb!
    By Jonathan Siegrist
    From: his truck
    Nov 3, 2008
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Maybe I am alone here, but I think that this is one of the better 5.9s in Eldo. Only the length (short) and the 40 ft of scrambling to the base take away from this climb. Much easier than P1 of C'est La Vie or Hair City.
    By Sarge
    Jun 18, 2009

    Superb route. Great anchors at the top.
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 29, 2009

    I agree with comment above that pro is good, and so I don't think leaders should be scared off by the description that this isn't a good climb to "press your limit" or whatever. If you bring a good selection of small cams in particular, you can double them up and most of climb would be easily aidable on bomber pieces, and few moves that are not (end of traverse) are just past bomber gear (I placed yellow Mastercam in horizontal crack after the "pod"). I always hesitate to weigh in as I'd feel bad if someone followed my comment and got hurt, but I wanted to share my opinion as Eldo only has a limited number of climbs at any given rating with really good pro, and this seems like such a 5.9 to me. Of course every leader is responsible for his/her own safety.
    Also, this is 5.9 in Rossiter's guide: I wonder why so many feel need to use a + or -: 5.9 seemed fine.

    Edit--led today (10/22/16) and still agree with my old comment, but add that i put in more small and medium nuts this time than I remember, so bring a good selection of those too if this is likely to be challenging climbing for you.
    By D. Shaw
    Jul 9, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    Once you know the moves, yes, 5.9. But for the on-sight leader, better to think 10a/9+, because it is hard to see the moves on the traverse. You have to feel your way across. Definitely worth doing, and by the way, the rap to the ground is no problem on a 65 meter rope.
    By Kevin P
    From: Loveland
    Aug 3, 2010

    There really is a finger crack after the flake/overhang. Can't see it from the ground. Grab the flake, lean back, and there it is. Nice route.
    By Chris Grosshans
    Jul 9, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I agree the pro is very good. This route sucks Aliens/Mastercams off your rack. You might want to bring two sets.
    By George Barnes
    From: Westminster, CO
    Nov 3, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I didn't place anything bigger than a #0.75 C4. There's a place for a #3 and #2 on the 5.easy start just above the dead log.

    Bring plenty of finger-sized cams.
    By Kenan
    Jun 28, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I was surprised to see that this doesn't have more stars. The position is great, the movement interesting and varied, and it's one of those improbable lines that looks harder than it is. Holds appear right where you need them. Now one of my favorite 9s at Eldo. The scrambly start does detract a bit, but the upper part is so clean and aesthetic, I still give it 4 stars.

    As far as difficulty, no way is this any harder than 5.9. Other Eldo 9+s are WAY harder (such as Hair City, P1 of Rincon, P1 of Pony Express, P1 of Tagger, etc). Just have faith that the holds (and gear) in the hand traverse are bomber and don't get stressed.... This climb can actually be quite restful.

    Super fun!
    By Connor Newman
    From: Reno, NV
    Jul 8, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Awesome route, one of the best pitches at its grade in Eldo, I would say, despite the lackluster start. Yesterday when I did this we couldn't get out an old #1 Friend I placed after the crux and below the pin. It's a piece I've had for a while and would love to get it back. If any one gets it out, there's a pitcher from the Southern Sun in it for you. My cell number is 720-938-7626.
    By cslice
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 3, 2014

    All the moves are there, but I definitely found this a hard onsight. The gear is good but quite thin. I don't like swinging falls on C3s. I found Blind Faith and Handcracker much easier even though they are in the 10 range, but...welcome to Eldo.
    By Russ Keane
    Jan 17, 2017

    Tricky little climb! Quite fun, and in the end pretty fair for the grade. Neat swinging around left and then finding the way up that is hidden from below.

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