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Elevation: 6,000 ft
GPS: 39.92864, -105.28669
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 125,178 total · 571/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

There are two smaller, distinct, north-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. These crags have an advantage of shade in the summer heat and as a result Upper Peanuts Wall has some of the most striking lichens in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Heavy Weather, 5.9; Forbidden Planet, 5.11a/b; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b S, and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b VS.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

Getting There Suggest change

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. If you are headed to Upper Peanuts, continue around up and to the right of Lower Peanuts Wall

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

56 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Peanuts Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 198
Your Basic Lieback
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 131
Dihedral
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 515
West Crack (aka Star Wars)
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Cornered, straight up variation
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 307
Heavy Weather
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 209
Peanuts
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Forbidden Planet
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 28
Gravity's Angel
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 51
Scorpions
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 21
Young, Blonde, and Easy
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 44
Sunrider
Sport, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 26
Criller
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of…
Trad, TR
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
 6
The Sacred and the Profane
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 8
Black Pearl
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Your Basic Lieback Lower Peanuts
 198
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Dihedral Lower Peanuts
 131
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
West Crack (aka Star Wars) Lower Peanuts
 515
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Cornered, straight up varia… Lower Peanuts
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Heavy Weather Upper Peanuts
 307
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Peanuts Lower Peanuts
 209
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Forbidden Planet Lower Peanuts
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gravity's Angel Upper Peanuts
 28
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Scorpions Lower Peanuts
 51
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Young, Blonde, and Easy Lower Peanuts
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Sunrider Upper Peanuts
 44
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Criller Lower Peanuts
 26
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospe… Lower Peanuts
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, TR
The Sacred and the Profane Lower Peanuts
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R Sport
Black Pearl Lower Peanuts
 8
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Peanuts Walls »

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