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Peanuts Walls

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Lower Peanuts 
Upper Peanuts 

Peanuts Walls Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 39.92864, -105.28669 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,006
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006


74° | 47°

60° | 42°

50° | 38°

49° | 37°

58° | 40°
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Upper Peanuts Wall topo Photo by Myke Komarnitsky

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  • Description 

    There are two smaller, distinct, north-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. These crags have an advantage of shade in the summer heat and as a result Upper Peanuts Wall has some of the most striking lichens in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

    While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Heavy Weather, 5.9; Forbidden Planet, 5.11a/b; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b S, and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b VS.

    Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

    Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

    Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

    Getting There 

    There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. If you are headed to Upper Peanuts, continue around up and to the right of Lower Peanuts Wall

    The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 0.4 miles from here

    56 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',5]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Peanuts Walls

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Peanuts Walls:
    Your Basic Lieback   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
    Dihedral   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
    West Crack (aka Star Wars)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   Lower Peanuts
    Upstairs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Upper Peanuts
    Heavy Weather   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Upper Peanuts
    Cornered, straight up variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   Lower Peanuts
    Peanuts   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
    Blows Against the Empire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Peanuts
    Do or Do Not   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Peanuts
    Forbidden Planet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
    Scorpions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Peanuts
    Gravity's Angel   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Peanuts
    Young, Blonde, and Easy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Peanuts
    Sunrider   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   Upper Peanuts
    The Sacred and the Profane   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Lower Peanuts
    Black Pearl   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Lower Peanuts
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Peanuts Walls

    Featured Route For Peanuts Walls
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Black Pearl starts to the right of the black s...

    Black Pearl 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Lower Peanuts
    Equipped by Fred Knapp. Tech 9!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Peanuts Walls Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Lower Peanuts.  Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...
    Topo for Lower Peanuts. Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The view from Peanuts wall of Redgarden, Shirt Tai...
    The view from Peanuts wall of Redgarden, Shirt Tai...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Peanuts Wall, 3/10/07.
    BETA PHOTO: Peanuts Wall, 3/10/07.

    Comments on Peanuts Walls Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By JVM
    Aug 10, 2014
    Ok well WTF does "No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult" mean? Because 5.6 is exceptionally easy and 5.13 is exceptionally difficult you idiot.....
    Especially after some turd rips an undercling off.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 10, 2014
    JVM, idiot writing means it's a crag probably best for non-beginners and non-high end climbers...which means I would recommend it for the mean +/- 2 SD part of the two tailed curve of climbers.
    By Ben Collett
    Aug 10, 2014
    JVM, what is with the anger? I have climbed a lot with Taylor, and I can assure you that he is not a turd. He is a nice guy and is a good steward to the climbing community. Holds break. Deal with it.
    By slim
    Aug 11, 2014
    Crying about a hold breaking at Eldo, that's some funny shit. Calling Taylor a turd? Not so funny....

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