Peanuts Walls Rock Climbing
Upper Peanuts Wall topo Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
There are two smaller, distinct, north-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper
. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. These crags have an advantage of shade in the summer heat and as a result Upper Peanuts Wall has some of the most striking lichens in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.
While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Star Wars
, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts
(opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Heavy Weather
, 5.9; Forbidden Planet
, 5.11a/b; Gravity's Angel
, 5.11b; Sunrider
, 5.11b; Just Another Girl's Climb
, 5.12a/b S, and the runout Advanced Rockcraft
, 5.12b VS.
Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.
Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.
Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. If you are headed to Upper Peanuts, continue around up and to the right of Lower Peanuts Wall
The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.
Weather station 0.4 miles from here
56 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',5]
Classic Climbing Routes in Peanuts Walls
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Peanuts Walls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Peanuts Walls:
Featured Route For Peanuts Walls
The Sacred and the Profane 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
: Eldorado Canyon SP
: ... : Lower Peanuts
The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson. It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule. To start TSATP, climb the start of Peanuts, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete. Clip the first bolt, make some easy moves over the roof, and then setu...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
Topo for Lower Peanuts. Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...
The view from Peanuts wall of Redgarden, Shirt Tai...
BETA PHOTO: Peanuts Wall, 3/10/07.
Aug 10, 2014
Ok well WTF does "No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult" mean? Because 5.6 is exceptionally easy and 5.13 is exceptionally difficult you idiot.....
Especially after some turd rips an undercling off.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 10, 2014
JVM, idiot writing here...it means it's a crag probably best for non-beginners and non-high end climbers...which means I would recommend it for the mean +/- 2 SD part of the two tailed curve of climbers.
By Ben Collett
Aug 10, 2014
JVM, what is with the anger? I have climbed a lot with Taylor, and I can assure you that he is not a turd. He is a nice guy and is a good steward to the climbing community. Holds break. Deal with it.
Aug 11, 2014
Crying about a hold breaking at Eldo, that's some funny shit. Calling Taylor a turd? Not so funny....