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Peanut Gallery Crack 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Henry Barber 1973
Page Views: 5,733
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Laura climbing the fingers and hands section of Pe...


This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.

If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.


This feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".

From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.


Regular rack plus some WIDE cams. Doubles in the hand sizes recommended.

Photos of Peanut Gallery Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I finally got my lead on this thing today. Wow... ...
I finally got my lead on this thing today. Wow... ...
Rock Climbing Photo: damn
Rock Climbing Photo: The line viewed from Airation Butress
BETA PHOTO: The line viewed from Airation Butress
Rock Climbing Photo: Converse gettin in on the groveling
Converse gettin in on the groveling
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim on Peanut Gallery Flake....
Tim on Peanut Gallery Flake....

Comments on Peanut Gallery Crack Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: USA
Mar 26, 2007

I belileive that the top fifteen feet or so is bigger than a #6, either run it out, or you will need a big bro or two. This route has awsome exposure.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

I think Kenny Sims made the first lead of this route. He did have some problems with clipping in the wrong rope too! Anyway a good pump- also the arete to the right is a good tr 11B
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 30, 2009

This is one of my favorite pitches of climbing on Cathedral...barndoor laybacking, sinker hand and fist jamming, and some decent offwidth action, most of it slightly can't go wrong! The exposure is fantastic, too.
By K. Boyko
From: Where the dog is
Aug 7, 2014

Brilliant climb! 5 star climbing and a must do just for the exposure.

Wide climbing isn't too bad. Easily lead with just one #5 camalot as long as you don't place it at the bottom overhang (#4 fits great here).
If airtime doesn't bother you, forgo the big stuff as the falls would be clean and on good rock.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 16, 2017

I finally led this one today and it was an amazing experience. so good!
I placed a #6 and didn't use a #5 so it seems like that is down to preference. Have fun what ever you place!

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