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Peanut Brittle T 
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Peanut Brittle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gene Drake, 1969
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: Ian Leader on Nov 9, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Peanut Brittle route

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From the main wall, it's obvious that there should be a route on the far left of the Hogs Back S. face. The cracks and slabs are messy, but surely it will go - we'll be up and down quickly and back in time for tea...

The first pitch leads up and slightly right before the problem starts to appear. The flake / crack system leading to the obvious anchor vibrates ever so slightly when you hit it. Some bits are worse than others. There's just enough decent places to put pro, and you continue up and left onto the flake curving up to a small roof, where you there's enough cracks to feel good about building an anchor.

From here, go slightly left, and up a small flared crack. There seems to be no easy way out here, but as the crack runs out, you can shuffle left over the ridge (great feeling of stepping into the unknown!) to find some bulbous features and an easy scramble up to the top, past a dead tree bent over in the shape of a Japanese Tori (watch out for rope drag here).

Worth climbing? Sure, but only if you like easy climbs on vibrating flakes; mostly it was fun because it was new and unknown. Not found in any guide book or on the web, so let me know if it has a pre-existing name / FA date.

Location 

Rap off the west end of Hogsback, or bushwhack left from the Pony Express through a mess of trails and boulders to get to the two trees in a crack.

Start right of two bolted routes.

Protection 

Double rack of cams, a few nuts, no bolts.


Photos of Peanut Brittle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peanut Brittle start. Go up and left towards white...
BETA PHOTO: Peanut Brittle start. Go up and left towards white...

Comments on Peanut Brittle Add Comment
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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Nor Cal
Nov 20, 2014

Very nice, thanks for sharing Ian.
By Petch
May 11, 2017

This climb is called Peanut Brittle. FA by Gene Drake 1969.
By Ian Leader
May 27, 2017

Thanks Petch - the name is appropriate!
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Jun 25, 2017

We liked this route. Short approach, good views, cool crack, smooth white slab, and wind blown tree. Rated 5.7 in Carville and Jenkewitz-Meytras guides.

There is a bolted anchor about 50 ft up - you can stop here and TR Raspberry Bypass 10b or Strawberry Bypass 10b

From the top of Peanut Brittle, descend the 3rd/4th class gully to the west which leads to top of Hogwild area and good trail back to Pony Express.

5.8 variation: From the top of the smooth slab, undercling an overhang to the right. Follow a right facing and leaning arch system. (from Jenkewitz-Meytras guide)

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