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(h) The Peanut
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Peanut Brittle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,483
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (127)
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Description 

A slightly runout climb that shoots up the middle of The Peanut at the bottom and meets up with the finish of Pop Goes the Nubbin.

It may seem a little silly to add a "PG-13" rating to a climb like this, but a leader should feel comfortable on knobby runout terrain; there are definately better-protected 5.8s in the park if you're looking for an easy first lead or something.

Protection 

6 bolts to a bolted anchor.


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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 13, 2010

This route is a bit more runout than it's neighbor to the left, but I think that if you can confidently clip the first bolt you will have no problems above.
By Andrew McMullen
Oct 9, 2012

Definitely a committing but easy move to the first bolt. Delicate moves on tiny knobs make for an excellent but slightly nerve wracking climb if you are not a confident leader.
By Justin G88
Oct 28, 2015

Normally I feel comfortable leading 10a/b, but my first time at Smith my partner and I got shut down trying to make the moves to the first bolt. There are definitely better things to start out on at Smith.
By Ben Horowitz
From: Berkeley
Mar 26, 2016

The beginning of this was hard! I was able to comfortably onsight all other 8s without a stick clip but I had to ask someone going up a neighboring route to clip the first bolt on the way up... Definitely committing moves for a 5.8 on this one.
By Lane Aasen
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 13, 2016

My friend blew it going to the first bolt on a cold morning and broke his ankle. It's only 5.8, but don't hesitate to use a stick clip!
By nbollier
From: Portland, Oregon
Jul 19, 2016

Simply not nearly as good as other 5.8's you'll find around the area. Tough/Dangerous start with a techy crimp haul.
By Benj84
Feb 9, 2017

there are a few spots on this climb where the only holds are hollow sounding flakes which flex under thumb tension, with a lot of cleaning up this would be a mediocre climb
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 15, 2017

This did not feel run out to me. It felt easier than hop on pop. Enjoyable climb.

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