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Peak 3986

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Milktoast Chimney T 
Red Baron Tower T 

Peak 3986 Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 12,960'
Location: 36.55207, -118.23745 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 656
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 6, 2016
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The South Face of Peak 3986 as seen from the appro...

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


Peak 3986 - AKA Peak 12,960+ or Peak 13,019 (depending on map) - has a massive and inspiring south face; home to a handful of technical routes including the original South Face (V 5.9 A2, Rowell-Jones-Faint 1970), the Kearney Route (V 5.9 A2, Kearney-Foster-Nelson 1976), the Zig-Zag Dihedral (IV 5.9+, Bindner-Brennan 1995), the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10R, Moser-Ness 2012), the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8, Bindner-Harris 1997), and the Red Baron Tower (III 5.10, Beckey-Hagen 1972). The East Ridge (cl2-3) and West Ridge (cl4) both provide easier access to the summit. Most of the climbing exists on the far eastern side of the south face, quite a ways from the true summit, and as a result the routes tend to end on the plateau rather than continuing to the top.

Getting There 

Approach as for the south face of Lone Pine Peak. From Lone Pine, head west on Whitney Portal Road. Turn left at Horseshoe Meadows road and follow to Granite View Drive. Turn right on Granite View Drive, past a house and right at the fork past the house. Take the dirt road up at far as you can get (depending on clearance). The trail begins at the end of the road. Follow the trail one mile to the Stonehouse, and then follow the use trail just below the Stonehouse up the valley, staying high until you reach the steeper moraine. Follow cairns up through the boulder field past the south face of LPP and continue up to a nice flat forested camping area with a seasonal stream flowing nearby, crossing the creek where the south gully enters the canyon. Allow 4 hours to reach the camp. From here, another 45 min to 1 hour to reach the base of the routes.

Climbing Season

For the 13 - Whitney and Surrounding Peaks area.

Weather station 17.2 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Peak 3986
Rock Climbing Photo: Milktoast Chimney

Milktoast Chimney 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : High Sierra : ... : Peak 3986
The Milktoast Chimney and Red Baron Tower are actually located at the base of Peak 3986m, however they share a similar location and logistics as the routes on the South Face of Lone Pine Peak. The Red Baron Tower will come into view as you make your way up the Tuttle Creek Drainage. It is the obvious red tower with an even more obvious right facing corner. Note that the Moynier/Fiddler guidebook has a photo for the Milktoast Chimney showing it on the larger, chossier, (and not red) tower to the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Peak 3986 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A miniature North Pillar of Fitz Roy? This is the ...
A miniature North Pillar of Fitz Roy? This is the ...

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