Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Peak 3986

Select Route:
Red Baron Tower T 

Peak 3986 Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,960'
Location: 36.55207, -118.23745 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 239
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 6, 2016
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The South Face of Peak 3986 as seen from the appro...

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Peak 3986 - AKA Peak 12,960+ or Peak 13,019 (depending on map) - has a massive and inspiring south face; home to a handful of technical routes including the original South Face (V 5.9 A2, Rowell-Jones-Faint 1970), the Kearney Route (V 5.9 A2, Kearney-Foster-Nelson 1976), the Zig-Zag Dihedral (IV 5.9+, Bindner-Brennan 1995), the Forgotten Ridge (V 5.10R, Moser-Ness 2012), the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8, Bindner-Harris 1997), and the Red Baron Tower (III 5.10, Beckey-Hagen 1972). The East Ridge (cl2-3) and West Ridge (cl4) both provide easier access to the summit. Most of the climbing exists on the far eastern side of the south face, quite a ways from the true summit, and as a result the routes tend to end on the plateau rather than continuing to the top.

Getting There 

Approach as for the south face of Lone Pine Peak. From Lone Pine, head west on Whitney Portal Road. Turn left at Horseshoe Meadows road and follow to Granite View Drive. Turn right on Granite View Drive, past a house and right at the fork past the house. Take the dirt road up at far as you can get (depending on clearance). The trail begins at the end of the road. Follow the trail one mile to the Stonehouse, and then follow the use trail just below the Stonehouse up the valley, staying high until you reach the steeper moraine. Follow cairns up through the boulder field past the south face of LPP and continue up to a nice flat forested camping area with a seasonal stream flowing nearby, crossing the creek where the south gully enters the canyon. Allow 4 hours to reach the camp. From here, another 45 min to 1 hour to reach the base of the routes.

Climbing Season

For the 13 - Whitney and Surrounding Peaks area.

Weather station 17.2 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Peak 3986
Rock Climbing Photo: Natalie following the excellent P2 of the Red Baro...

Red Baron Tower 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : High Sierra : ... : Peak 3986
A fabulous backcountry route leading to an obscure summit, deep in the North Fork of Tuttle Creek. Listed as an "alternate route" to the Milktoast Chimney (III 5.8) in Moynier & Fiddlers Sierra Classics book, this route has much greater visual appeal than the latter, following a perfectly square-cut dihedral system near the right edge of the tower. Highly featured rock yields a combination of crack-and-face climbing on nearly every pitch. Fred had an eye for a good line, and this one wont disapp...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Peak 3986 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A miniature North Pillar of Fitz Roy? This is the ...
A miniature North Pillar of Fitz Roy? This is the ...

Comments on Peak 3986 Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -