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Peak 11,300 beta
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May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: ....
Hey all,

I'm looking for beta on peak 11,300 in the AK range. My buddy and I are planning to climb it in early June. I'm looking for any beta on route conditions specifically. What are the concerns of climbing it in early June? Will there be enough snow? Does it need much snow to go? Anything helps, thanks.
LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
215 points
May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Sleeping on top of Washington column after climbin...
google.com/webhp?sourceid=chro... clint helander
From anchorage, alaska
Joined Dec 3, 2007
636 points
May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Sleeping on top of Washington column after climbin...
plenty of snow. june should be fine. clint helander
From anchorage, alaska
Joined Dec 3, 2007
636 points
May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: ....
Really? I thought AK has had kind of a rough year for snow... LawHous
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jul 21, 2012
215 points
May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Competing in the 2015 Ouray Elite Mixed Competitio...
The last month or so has been pretty banner, bringing the range up to near normal levels. Most ice routes are long gone by June, but 11300 has been known to go that late. I think the FA was in June? CCChanceR
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Aug 20, 2012
56 points
May 8, 2016
FA was actually July but almost all MP ticks are in May. We did it in May and the last 750' face was alpine ice. My buddies did it a few years later, also in May and they wallowed up waist deep snow where we swung tools. C'est la vie.
Super fun route.
Assuming you don't do it in a day, the grey rock bivy is far superior to the col bivy, which can be quite windy.
Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Joined Oct 17, 2006
187 points
May 16, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Harrison Peak in northern ID.
I assume you are referring to the Southwest Ridge and my response is based on that assumption. Just got back from an Alaska trip and climbed the SW Ridge on Peak 11300 on Saturday (5/14). It is currently in excellent condition. I think it should still be pretty good in June, the biggest concern would be temps. Plenty of snow still and a little less shouldn't hurt anything. Just pick a cold spell and climb at night when it is colder (it will be light anyway). It is a fantastic route btw, and definitely worth doing. Let me know if you have any more specific questions. Marlin Thorman
From Spokane, WA
Joined Oct 24, 2011
412 points


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