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Peachy Canoodle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore & Russell Frisch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,345
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on Apr 14, 2015

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Russell Frisch on the FA of Peachy Canoodle.

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  • Description 

    The younger, (slightly harder?) sister to Stone Staircase.

    The tree that was once at the bottom has been removed by an unknown party.

    Make your way up a few tenuous moves to a stance with. Continue up the line of bolts through a series of interesting hidden edges and pockets on good rock with a technical crux en route to a stance. Surpass the bulge on good holds and make one final committing move before a small runout, which leads to a 2-bolt anchor.

    (Originally envisioned by Seth Maciejowski but after a few years of lonely anchors he gave the FA party the green light to bolt and send it.)

    Location 

    Start at a line of bolts 15 feet left of Stone Staircase.

    Protection 

    8 Bolts


    Comments on Peachy Canoodle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Seth Maciejowski
    Apr 21, 2015

    Nice Kris! Glad to see you got it done. This pitch is a nice sister to Stone Staircase. Maybe a touch harder. Might be a little dirty until it sees some traffic....
    By june m
    From: elmore ,vt
    Jun 7, 2015

    Glad it finally got bolted.
    By DRusso
    Jul 1, 2015

    Fun route I thought the grade was spot on and pretty sustained.
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Sep 15, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Good addition though some of the features are hollow, but that's kind of the tenor for Bolton Valley climbing.

    The anchors should be refreshed with either two pairs of 3/8" (at minimum) quick links (preferably stainless) or ideally a stainless quicklink and rap ring combo.
    By TSluiter
    From: Holland, VT
    Oct 9, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I flailed and failed over and over again on this one. Good for the ego.

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