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PBR Street Gang 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tai DeVore, Todd Townsend 2010 G.U.
Season: Spring, fall, early/late summer
Page Views: 4,355
Submitted By: Jason Chinchen on May 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Getting funky at the crux.


Climb 6 pitches of really good granite.
P1- climb the water worn groove on the far right side of PSOM Slab to a ledge. *OR* Climb the better looking pitch to the left (The High Life) up cracks and an undercling section to three bolts and anchors. (5.9)
P2- Move right and climb the seam to anchors. *OR*
P3- Continue in the seam to the next anchors under the roof system.
P4- Climb through the roof (crux)with hand jams and then clip a bolt and go left under the roof and then up to anchors.
P5- Climb the flaring chimney/corner. Good rock and adequate protection.The anchors are out on the face to the left *OR*
P6- Skip this anchor and go straight to a ledge and then up and left to the last anchors.

6 raps with one 70 M rope. Watch the ends as a few are rope stretchers.


Go uphill all the way along the PSOM Slab to the 4th class gully and start up the route.


Standard trad rack, double med sized cams and a set of nuts.

Photos of PBR Street Gang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "The High Life" first pitch variation
"The High Life" first pitch variation
Rock Climbing Photo: Another option: Jam hands as high as possible, kic...
Another option: Jam hands as high as possible, kic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Pitch 2.
Looking down Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anne cruising through fun liebacking on Pitch 3.
Anne cruising through fun liebacking on Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the crux roof on pitch 4.
Looking up at the crux roof on pitch 4.

Comments on PBR Street Gang Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2017
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

FYI, this route will feel harder if you are under 6 ft tall, and/or have short legs, and/or have small hands. It is fairly straight forward to step in a sling to get over the roof, but if you decide to just go for it, be prepared for 5.9+++!
By rickziegler Ziegler
May 10, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Lots of good 5.7 - 5.8 climbing on this one. If this thing was in Yosemite, people would be lining up to epic on it everyday. Good rock, good gear the whole way on this one.

I thought the "High Life" start was a bit more fun start for P1. The leader can clip the High Life anchors then walk over to the anchors for PBR P1 and belay.
By fivefun
Jul 22, 2012

Low angle fun. Good rock and friction. Crux move feels like 5.9 if you're 6' tall and can hold body weight on a fist jam. Great climb if you can beat the heat.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route with a very fun crux.

Speaking of which, if you are short don't be discouraged. I am 5'7 and had no problem pulling the crux. A very unique move, but not harder than 5.9.

I agree with rick that the route would have people lining up to epic on it in the Valley, as well as the fact that the High Life variation is very good. Kinda like a more difficult Jellyroll Arch (Donner Summit), only different.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Sounds like a lot of people are still getting stuffed at the crux. Don't worry, if the move feels unreasonable, the whole thing goes at a very civilized 5.8 C1.
By Kurtz
Oct 15, 2013

- The crux is way harder than the rest of the route but takes excellent pro. There are several ways to skin this cat depending on your skill set and body type, but aid it if necessary. Don't bail!

- The final pitch is almost 60 meters. At 40m, you'll see a stray anchor about 15 ft. out left on the slab (P5 in Desc), but if you continue up and left after the corner ends, you will reach another anchor that is impossible to see until you are within 25 ft of it (P6 in Desc).

- Be careful rappelling down over the crux! It's easy to flip or mash your hands.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Feb 18, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

P1- not much fun to climb when it's wet
P2- nicest (clean, aesthetic) pitch on the route, a bit more like 5.7 than 5.8
P3- another fun pitch, solid 5.8 (maybe even 5.9), a couple of nice thin finger locks in a flaring groove/shallow corner to a lieback flake
P4- getting over the lip should be no problem, there are solid hands (even for those with thin hands). the real crux is the next couple of moves (insecure liebacking of the pod above the hand jams). would not want to fall over that lip. definitely the money pitch and extra spicy when it's wet. the fun continues at the bolt. fairly sustained.
P5- bit of groveling. started right, then transitioned left into the groove. stopped at the first anchor (5.7/8 move out to the left).

descent: bypass the crux/roof on the far left, then come back right underneath on the slab to the anchor on top of P3. this avoids the potential flailing across the lip, the rope running over a (sharp) edge, and the potential snag by the rope eating flake (higher up)on the pull. watch ends on all the raps, some are very tight with a single 70m. knot ends.
By Muscrat
Nov 26, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Lovely climb, nice work Tai. Do the first 2 pitches in 1 long pitch (2&3 if you count high life as P1) watch rope drag, gets pumpy, the layback is fun. I agree w/previous, the layback low crack above the roof might be the crux, heady for 5.9, would not want to fall through this section. Link the final 2 pitches, not difficult, watch rope drag. I have climbed this twice, got the rope stuck twice on the rap below the roof. Better to swing over to Big Deal and rap the new(er rap line there.
By Dave Livingston
May 15, 2015

I agree with the previous posts...being tall and/or flexible will definitely help you get past the overhanging roof. As I am neither, I placed a #4 cam above the roof, clipped a sling, stood in it and past the crux with minimum fuss. Lastly, I highly recommend starting the route by doing High Life, an awesome pitch, even on its own.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
May 18, 2015

Or you could look behind you and grab the outside corner of the aerie above you and pull up much easier. Im 5-7 and discovered this beta the second go.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 26, 2015

The roof pitch crux seems about as hard as anything else on the route, it just looks intimidating as all get out. It definitely ranks up there as one of the hardest looking moderate things I've climbed in a while. It seemed simply like 5.9? There's a second before I turned it around from the establishing jams and realized I was on an easy lieback slab section that I thought maybe it was as hard as advertised. But no.

By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Mar 28, 2016

Climbed this as others have suggested by linking the last two pitches. It worked out really well. The roof is much mellower than it appears when you set out. If you're feeling iffy, there are at least three cam placements you can reach before lugging yourself over the edge. Immediately above the roof, then it's maybe 6ft of lieback up a wide crack before you can get a #2 in. If you think you'll feel sketched out here, bring a #5 or so and you can stitch it all the way up. Then leave the #5 at the next anchor and grab it on your way down.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jul 2, 2017

I love how people tell other people that had trouble at the roof that they won't???

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