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Hole in the Wall
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Paydirt 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 102'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Pletta & Karl Kiser & Noah Monagle, Fall 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 521
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Jan 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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FA Paydirt

Description 

Climb straight up through the roofs on good holds (the crux). A 60 m rope can be used but exercise care when lowering.

Location 

The route is on the right side of Hole in the Wall, just left of the gully which separates Hole in the Wall from the Redeemer formation. Rap the route.

Protection 

Mixed route, gear and bolts. Standard trad rack to hand sized cam (gold camalot). Anchors and chain at the top.


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By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The holds may have changed since the FA (in fact a small one broke while I lead it, leaving behind a cleaner crack). In its current state, this is not a Sandias 5.10. We could think of some nearby 5.8s that might be harder.

The climb is steep and fun and has great protection at the cruxes. The bolts are thoughtfully placed to prevent any ledge-fall potential. This is a great route for an aspiring 5.9 leader.

Unfortunately we experienced a nearly constant rain of sand and gravel as the rope rubbed off crystals from the rock and knocked gruss out of the gully on top. Recent rain may have washed some material into the gully and lower slope. My second got pegged in the tooth and under her eye while climbing it. We recommend flipping the belayer's rope out of the gully when seconding/top-roping to reduce some of the assault.

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