REI Community
Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Click Your Heels S 
Cowardly Lion S 
Dancing Dwarfs S 
Emerald City S 
Flying Monkeys S 
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road S 
Horse Of A Different Color S 
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain S 
Scarecrow S 
Tin Man S 

Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: SA, MC, '94
Page Views: 1,818
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Jun 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Classic rope and rock photo. The full route is sh...

Description 

Pitch 1 (65ft, 5.10d, BC, 8 bolts) From a stem box start use sidepulls and small feet to reach an intriguing, but not recommended, vertical finger slot. Pull a small featured roof to obtain a full rest before making a final move to reach the chains.

Pitch 2 (50ft, 5.12a/b, BC, 7 bolts) Scramble up easy ground to obtain a ledge. Using a shark's fin and poor feet climb into a rest below the roof, being careful not to crater onto the ledge below. Pull the roof and subsequent intermittent crack using a grab bag of techniques including long reaches, gastons, and fingerlocks. The climbing in this section is incredible. Clip the chains from a well earned rest.

Location 

Start between Emerald City and Flying Monkeys in front of and slightly right of new growth off of an old tree stump.

Protection 

Bolts and chains. The anchors at the end of each pitch consist of a bolt and chain.

The pitches can be linked with a 70m rope. When lowering be sure to tie a knot and watch the ends as only a few feet remain. If climbing both pitches shoulder length slings are recommended on the anchor of pitch 1 and below the roof.


Comments on Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Just because the slot is there doesn't mean you should or have to use it Joseph. A lot more fun if you don't. If you do take a star off of it.
By Chen
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 27, 2009

Super fun route! Forget about the slot. Nice jugs to pull on at the small roof near the top.
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Oct 24, 2015

For someone who knows the beta, did you go left or right of the vertical finger slot? There's good stuff to the right but I worry it's off route as it's pretty close to the holds for Flying Monkeys. Left looks really blank.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2015

I, for one, quite enjoyed using the slot on this route and would recommend that you use it as well. What do you guys have against finger slots??
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Oct 25, 2015

I used it... was just wondering more whether you used your right hand in it and had your body left of it, or vice versa.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About