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Paul's Waltz 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Paul Baird, early '70s
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Matt Rhodin on Dec 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Circled hold is off I suppose

Description 

Not sure if this an established problem, but pretty much just go up the face right in front of the boulder on the ground. A little contrived. There was a hold out left I neglected to use. Start on the lowest crimp rail with a good left hand. Move up on crimps (and a sloper) to the sit down traverse horizontal. Continue straight up for a sketchy (ish) topout on the slab. Super fun.

Location 

See photo

Protection 

couple pads


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 21, 2015

That looks like 'Paul's Waltz', a problem from the early 70's, FA - Paul Baird, the pioneer of LW. In some old notes he gave me he called it 5.10. Between it and Poly's Nose, L to Rt, he lists 'Plumb Line'5.11+, FA Chuck Boyd early '80s, then 'Bob's Mantle' 5.11+ FA Neil Pothier, early 80's. Between Paul's Waltz and the split he mentions three more routes, all FA Paul Baird, early 70's, R to L 'Ground Round', 'Hidden Flake' and 'Edge Lieback'. Looks like he and his friends started climbing every variation of every square inch early!
By Joe M.
Administrator
Dec 22, 2015

I have done several really good eliminates on this face. There are some really fun holds that you can mix and match to make some good problems, especially when there is lots of snow and this is the only dry rock around...
By Matt Rhodin
From: Denver, CO
Dec 22, 2015

Thanks for the history! I did notice a lot of potential for variations. This is the line I took
By Joe M.
Administrator
Dec 23, 2015

Yup, I have done that same line with those holds and even less. Even worked out a variation to avoid as many of the best holds and use some of the slopers there. Cool little section of rock!

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