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Paul's Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Glenn Payan, Paul Starr, 1995
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Super fun climb, protects really well

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>


This good route has a finger crack crux in the first ten feet and fun but easier climbing above.


Just left of High Mountain Woody, but starting from a terrace fifty or sixty feet higher than the start of HMW. The easier approach is probably to just rappel in since the trail takes you to the top and there is an easily accessible bolted (two bolts, no chains or rings but they aren't necessary). Alternatively you could continue north along the top of the crag, drop down a level between "Smell of Nuprin" and "Remembrance Day", then walk south until a fixed hand line will take you down to the starting terrace.

Note that McLane's guidebook has a wee typo relevant to the second approach described above. Remembrance Day is listed as route 385, but the line on the topo is labeled 365. 365 is correctly labelled elsewhere as a Lower Malamute route.


Finger sized nuts or cams for the start. A small selection of larger nuts and hand sized cams for the rest.

Photos of Paul's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul's Crack (for a fun alternative, try going up ...
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Rock Climbing Photo: Joanne starting up Paul's Crack on a cool windy da...
Joanne starting up Paul's Crack on a cool windy da...

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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun stuff, easy first 10a. Fingers and tricky feet for the first 20 feet with a short crux where the finger crack ends and the features begin. You can protect these moves with a blue metolius at your knees and nothing above you. You'll be rewarded with beautiful jugs after a few moves though, so just punch it.

Crack seperates into two, both breaking left but one above the other. I found better pro and holds in the upper crack, but make sure to throw a few slings on your gear before breaking left. Good finger locks take you through the traverse section, and the difficulty drops significantly towards the top.

Gear blue metolius to a #2 Camalot. Doubles in fingers - tight hands if you want to sew it up.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Sinker finger-locks and straightforward toe jam for a single move, then it's just fun. Highly recommend protecting the belayer (sling a tree or place some low pro). I started up the face left of the crack before stepping back right, which may have avoided the off-the-ground crux, but there wasn't any tape to follow so it didn't feel like cheating.
By Laralyn Mowers
From: Astoria, NY
Jul 30, 2017

You'll want to hit this up early in the day. The winds pick up around noon, and are distractingly strong after mid-afternoon. Look out on the water before you rap down. If there's more than a handful of wind sailers, try again tomorrow.

Rap down, and then climb back up. The pro is great, the moves are cruiser (feels pretty soft for the rating), and there are plenty of foot holds outside of the splitter if you want them.

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