|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Josh Odom on Oct 26, 2009|
|Comments on Paul's Boutique||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: boulder, co
Mar 19, 2010
|Good route. Quite dirty! Didn't use(or have) anything bigger than a 4" piece. Seemed more like about 80ft.|
By Rob Rives
Nov 21, 2010
|Lots of fun, despite being completely choked with leaves. Got lost and wandered up to this area, saw this crack and climbed without knowledge of name or grade.|
By Russ Keane
Jul 9, 2016
This climb is worth some more attention. It's fun. And yes, I would concur at 5.8-, as a nice well-protected not scary 5.8. If you've got some crack-climbing skills under your belt, and you want to try/practice, jump on this and simply stick to your principles. Stay in the crack, keep shoving your feet and nudging your way higher, and you will be fine. There aren't many "miracle holds" outside (or inside for that matter) of the crack to cheat and pull your way up, so it's a true fair test and you will find yourself wedged in like a hot dog the whole time, with a good bit of twisting, contorting, and grunting. Grade stays nice and consistent through the whole climb, never relenting but never getting too soft. It's great.
I used a 4, two 3's, two 1's, one .75, and I think that's it. (Kinda sewed it up, haha). You will be happy to have the big stuff. Most of the time you can place at or above your head, for the whimpy send.
Could use more traffic, but it's clean and ready to go. At this grade, and not being your typical face climb, this one's nice to have handy at the Bald.
By Robert Branch
From: Burnsville, NC
Jan 29, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
|Good off width crack climb. The slope getting to it is a pain from the after effects of last fall's fire. It is dusty, loose, and the leaf litter plus the hickory nuts give a nice 'walking on ball bearings' effect.|