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Pauligk Pillar 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mr and Mrs Roland Pauligk, Randy Grandstaff
Page Views: 4,847
Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on east face of Mescalito.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This climb fallows a right facing corner for two pitches. It starts just to the left of Y2K. Face climb,jam, and stem up the corner past a thin section(crux) to fixed gear and slings. Continue up the corner angling slightly left using mostly face climbing,stemming, and some chimneying.


Fixed pro and slings in the crack at top of first pitch,but you can build an anchor and only use them to rappel. Slings around tree on top of second pitch. A standard rack and slings will do. Two ropes to rappel.

Photos of Pauligk Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes, it's THAT much fun!
Yes, it's THAT much fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan on the stellar P1
Ryan on the stellar P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Garry heading up pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Garry heading up pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike leading P-2  Note the awesome but scary looki...
Mike leading P-2 Note the awesome but scary looki...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike following up P-1.
Mike following up P-1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pauligk Pillar
BETA PHOTO: Pauligk Pillar

Comments on Pauligk Pillar Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2016
By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Mar 10, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I should have given this a star when I put it in. I want to return and do the tight dihedral on the right as the second pitch. It looked good and I am not sure if it has been done. If anyone knows please fill me in. I think you might be able to get to the anchor on top of Y2K's P2. This was a good morning out. A good long 1st pitch if u r waiting for Y2K to open up.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jun 16, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A short but worthwhile climb with a stellar first pitch that has lots of variety. Made for an interesting 5.7 anyway. I got to do a little traversing under a small roof at the start, some liebacking, stemming, jamming,a little chimneying and chicken-winging too!

Watch out for rope eating cracks when pulling, and throwing ropes. I saw some rope remnants deep inside a crack, and ours almost got eaten too in the same spot.
By Aminda
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 6, 2009

We were thrown off by a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground. Keep climbing to the real belay, another 50 feet up.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 6, 2009

Second pitch is actually only 115'. We rapped off the second with a 70m and barely reached the anchors. Then did a double rope rap from second anchor. You could get off with only a 70m if you're willing to trust the ratty nest of slings at 100' on the 1st pitch.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I'd give three stars to the first pitch, 0 to the second. The first pitch was super fun, as it seemed to throw a little of everything at you: a bouldery start, stemming, jamming, OW, face...with good pro and nice rock.

The second pitch added nothing to the route, other than an awkward, extra rappel.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 22, 2011

I agree with Sheri, Great 1st Pitch, average 2nd pitch.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 19, 2012

Rapped down the face past the sling nest to the bolts on the 5.12 with 2 60m ropes.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 28, 2013

Fun climb. The anchor at the top of the first pitch is cleaned up and in good shape -- currently three fixed nuts and two threads (one with beefy cord), all equalized with a tied-off cordelette and two rings.
By immunizer
May 28, 2013

Nice climb with varied movement. Beware a very loose flake near top of 2nd pitch. More importantly, beware the rope-eating crack-daemon who lives here. He is hungry. He will not be satisfied with just my rope. He will eat yours, too. Now I have two ropes, but they are very short.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Mar 24, 2014

I'd second Tom's recommendation of rapping down the face to anchors of Welcome to Red Rocks. It's a much nicer pull. Also, the anchor at 100' is no longer.
By Rico Tan
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Apr 7, 2016

Fun climb at the grade. We rapped from the tree exact same way as we came up. The first rap rope pull was bad and very easy to get rope snagged on things . Nice climb to do when waiting for another party to finish y2k.
By TactiCool
From: Republic Of Korea
Oct 7, 2016

Had some students lead this today. Someone added a bolted belay station at the top of pitch one and a rap station down low on the route. You could rap the route with a 60m now. We rapped the route with no issues but there is a high chance of getting your rope caught.
By Sean Stoops
From: Henderson, NV
Oct 10, 2016

I can confirm what Gary mentioned about the added stations. Thanks to whoever did that and got rid of the rats nest of slings!

We were still using 60m twins and when pulling the rope it didn't look like a single 60m would reach from the top to the next station down. 70m looks like it would though.

Also of note about the rope eating dragons, don't toss your rope down from the top as it seems that it will eventually slide down and pile up into the deep crack. Especially with knots on the ends. I've now have a core shot about 5ft from the end of my rope from wrenching it up through the crack.

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