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Patty Duke 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 9/25/85
Page Views: 274
Submitted By: Michael G on Aug 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Entering the crux protected by some micronuts.


Williams describes it as a "bit contrived", and it is.

Climb the face between Pas de Deux and City Lights to a ledge and small overhang formed by right- and left-facing flakes. The right-facing flakes are City Lights. Patty Duke involves a few moves above the left-facing flake, eliminating the right-facing flake, to gain the City Lights "jug". You can stay slightly left of City Lights as you work your way up, but eventually have to traverse over and up (5.5 R) to the bolt anchors.


On the face between Pas de Deux and City Lights


Williams suggests placing pro in the right-facing flakes of City Lights to protect the crux. Instead, I was able to get three micro-nuts in the left-facing flake (one was a directional) just beneath the crux. Judge for yourself.

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By SethG
May 18, 2013

The guidebook describes a second pitch, which starts just right of the chains and heads straight up into the overhang, eventually moving a little left and joining the finish of City Lights. This pitch is steep and pumpy. It has some nice moves but some crappy rock through the crux section. Felt a little bit harder than the 5.6+ suggested by Williams.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
May 28, 2017

Left side of that big flake was very creaky! Handle with care.

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