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Patti's Butt 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Jesse Bryant on Jun 25, 2015

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Description 

P1 (5.7, 60ft) - Run up to the first bolt, which is about 25 feet off the ground on the right-facing side of the corner just before it gets steep. As it gets steeper there is a second bolt in the steep, blocky section. As the pitch flattens out the easy crack could take a 4 or 5 cam or you can just run it out to the anchor, which is just to the right of a very obvious tree.

P2 (5.7+, 70ft) - Slab climbing above the tree and past a newer sapling that can be slung as quick protection. A smaller cam can be placed too before the first bolt, which is about 20ft above the belay ledge. Five or six draws to the top, which is on a huge dirty platform below the beginning of an obvious right-facing corner. This is some of my favorite moderate slab climbing at The Shield.

At the top of P2 is where this route starts to get a little dirty. Mind your feet here if there are people climbing anything climber's right of you. Also, your belayer might appreciate it.

P3 (5.6, 50ft) - Follow the crack and right-facing dirty corner up and onto some 4th class terrain to an obvious pine wrapped with slings for rappelling. It looks like a lot of it is flaky and barely in there, though its almost all solid...

P2 and P3 can easily be combined with a 60m.

Rap to the ground with twin 60s or to the top of P1 with one. 50m WON'T get you there. Then rap P1 with one 60m or w/e.

Location 

A major right-facing corner to the left of Drill & Repetition that leads to a blocky overhanging section. There is a bolt on the right-facing wall about 25 feet up just below the steeper section. This is the first bolt.

Protection 

8 quickdraws, single rack of cams to #3.

P1 = Two bolts and opportunity for larger active gear. Two bolt anchor at top.
P2 = Five or six bolts. Two bolt anchor at top.
P3 = Only takes gear. Fat tree for anchor.


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By Joven
Jul 12, 2016

5.7+ is a fair grade for this climb. Fun first pitch and climbing after the second bolt eases up, making for a nice run to the anchors. From the bolts atop P2, P3 looks more difficult than it is. I would link P2&3 if I were to climb this again. Definitely not a frequented route as there is lots of small rock debris atop all the pitches, be careful not to shower your belayer. We rapped in 2 rappels with one 70m rope. However, we just barely made it the bolts on top of P1 - be sure to tie knots in the ends of the ropes. Overall a nice climb at the end of the day, we rapped with plenty of light around 9pm.

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