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Cruising Patina Atoll.
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
This incredible and bizarre route starts with a ramp to an angled dihedral and then heads up to a lip edge where the fun begins. Puzzle through a continuous series of fascinating crux moves along the lip of a left-leaning rib, figuring out when it's best to move on top of the lip and when it's best to hang below it. This rib lip area has scattered patina plates with a lot of blank sections. Standing above the lip tends to be blank for hands. Near it's end, exit right and head up to an easy crack section and finish with a thin slab/face move.
Far left side of the Southwest Side, just before you reach the mouth of the gully going N/NE (Hostess Gully). The start is right of a large dihedral and just left of a narrow corner with a small roof above it.
Small rack of gear to 1.5" and long runners. Can sling horns down low. Bolts at the very start, along the crux section and for the top face move (probably no more than 8 total). Bolt anchors at the top.
The opening moves on the arete of Patina Atoll.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Feb 14, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
So good! Every crux was memorable and required some element of thinking.
You don't need gear for the top if you don't want to haul it. Once you get off of the rib, there's about 30' to the next bolt before chains, but the climbing is probably around 5.4.
However, the space between bolts #2 and #3 is...spacious!