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Patey's Gully 

WI3-4

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'
Original: WI3-4 [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Tad Welch Dec 1986
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 1, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Chapel Pond Routes: Power Play to Pussy Foot

Description 

I think "3+ to 4" might better describe the grade, but you be the judge. It all depends on conditions.

START: (See Photo) Below a large, left-facing corner about 60-70 ft uphill and right of the start of Power Play.

P1 - Climb up usually thin ice to the left of the corner itself. Near / at the top of the corner move right and up (crux) on either mixed terrain or thin ice. Then up. Belay where you want, probably off of trees.

Rap off, or...P2 - Up and left-ish over bulges and then a groove. Up left to the top.

Protection 

Usual stuff


Photos of Patey's Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In fat condition. According to Blue Lines 2, dashe...
BETA PHOTO: In fat condition. According to Blue Lines 2, dashe...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2/8/17
2/8/17

Comments on Patey's Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 10, 2016

Perhaps this is a variation, but it's the way I've always done it. At the top of the corner, you step left, then go straight up to a roof at the top of the corner about 80' up. Go up the right wall of the corner around the roof, then straight up to the trees. A long pitch with good rock gear to 3" (usually).
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 10, 2016

It was a while ago...maybe there was a step left before the move right. Each year the ice and the rock will decide the best course.

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