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Patapsco State Park

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Beached Wall Boulder, The 
Buzzards Rock 
Friction Wall 
Ilchester 
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Woodstock Rock 
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From MP's sister site:

Patapsco State Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 200'
Location: 39.2474, -76.7632 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,125
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Union Dam Tunnel. A common occurrence while c...

Description 

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.

Getting There 

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Patapsco State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Patapsco State Park:
Gratefully Dead   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Middle Climb   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
The Wimpy Whiner Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Bloody Bucket   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
The Truth   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Friction Wall
Midnight Lightning   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Ilchester
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Patapsco State Park

Featured Route For Patapsco State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Lightning starts in the center of the fac...

Midnight Lightning 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Maryland : Patapsco State Park : Ilchester
Start on two crimps and crank straight up to a decent hold, before moving up and slightly left to the top.Tough first move has been made tougher due to recent graffiti, and the steep top face isnt getting any easier either. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Maryland

Photos of Patapsco State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...
BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

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