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Patapsco State Park

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Beached Wall Boulder, The 
Buzzards Rock 
Friction Wall 
Ilchester 
Painted Wall, The 
Woodstock Rock 
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From MP's sister site:

Patapsco State Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 200'
Location: 39.2474, -76.7632 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,134
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Union Dam Tunnel. A common occurrence while c...

Description 

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.

Getting There 

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Patapsco State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Patapsco State Park:
Gratefully Dead   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Middle Climb   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
The Wimpy Whiner Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Bloody Bucket   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
The Truth   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Friction Wall
Midnight Lightning   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Ilchester
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Patapsco State Park

Featured Route For Patapsco State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Hidden Art is the thin crack line at the left end ...

Hidden Art 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Maryland : Patapsco State Park : Friction Wall
This route and Yoda's Vision both start off the same ledge, which is most easily reached from rappelling in from the top. Find the furthest most point of land at the top and use a high sling on the small tree as a directional.Leave the left end of the ledge via a thin crack in a corner, which changes to pure thin crack up higher.A great find recently unearthed by John Kelbel. Certainly worth the effort to get to, as it is probably the nicest crack line at the cliff.Staying tied in while belaying...[more]   Browse More Classics in Maryland

Photos of Patapsco State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...
BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

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