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YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Duncan McCallum, 1990
Page Views: 1,269
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Pastryworks follows the blue line, breaking off of...


Pastryworks climbs a line of four bolts just left of the mega-classic Yellow Matter Custard. Begin by climbing past the first two bolts on Yellow Matter, and traverse left to the first bolt of Pastryworks.

To help with rope drag and to keep the rope from running over a sharp corner, it's important to leave only the second bolt of Yellow Matter clipped, albeit with a very long sling. In order to do this from the ground, I stick clip both a short draw and a super-long draw onto the second bolt of Yellow Matter. After I clip the first bolt on Pastryworks, I reach back and unclip the short draw, leaving the super-long draw clipped.

Upon reaching the first bolt of Pastryworks, expect to find sustained, old-school crimping. Despite the fact that the route looks thin from the ground, the moves between crimps are big and physical, requiring a surprising amount of power. The crimps keep coming, and the bolts are spread out enough to give you the sense that you are really on lead.

Pastryworks has been forgotten over the years. Maybe it's because it looks so blank and tweaky from the ground (it isn't). Maybe it's because the Webster guide makes some vague reference to it being chipped (it wasn't). Maybe people just don't like this kind of climbing anymore (I do).

The route has been refurbished with new anchors and pruned tree limbs. There's no reason not to get on it.


Left of Yellow Matter Custard.


4 bolts, plus the first 2 bolts on Yellow Matter

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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 20, 2009

Great write-up Jay. I thought this route was one of the best 13s in New England.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 20, 2009

Thanks Peter. I agree with you, though before we did the pruning work, you couldn't really see the route from the ground. I think it has some of Sundown's best rock.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 16, 2010

the chipping accusations were because of some of Duncan's "work" on Cathedral.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 16, 2010

John, would you be referring to Dry Roasted?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 16, 2010

Yup- the old - screwdriver behind the loose flakes trick. saw him do it.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 17, 2010

Dry roasted definitly looks altered, I rapped over it setting lines up to have a friend takes photos of anther friend on it.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 17, 2010

Pastryworks doesn't look like Dry Roasted at all. It really didn't look like it was chipped. Dry Roasted, on the other can see the chipped holds from Camber.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 17, 2010

We were doing the 3rd ascent of Clean Sweep, so I kinda had to stay focused.
By DCSwish23
From: Maine/Spain
Sep 21, 2016

I tried this for the first time yesterday, it's GREAT! The description is really good, although the tree could use a little more pruning again (it doesnt actually get in the way).

Beta Warning! I was really surprised by the climbing on the route, the hard moves are actually more because the feet are bad than because the hands are. Mostly big powerful moves between good crimps. A really great line with a cool crux.

There was NO chalk on it at all yesterday and a few of the feet are a bit dirty so I'd suggest bringing a brush, but it's so good! This thing needs some love! Go climb it!

One more note, there's a hold glued on after the crux (the only really good hold on the route) which has the glue peeling off. The hold didn't seem too fragile, but it would probably make it harder if it came off. I don't have any stuff around here to fix it (and I'm not really a local there). It seems like someone could pretty easily peel the old glue and put some new to keep the route as awesome as it currently is.


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