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Passport to The Sky 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch, Tony Schwartz, Taylor Lais 7/16 (Ground-up)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Aug 3, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Passport to The Sky 12-

Description 

Crazy wandering line that was attempted/abandoned by Larry Shaffer. First pitch takes some hard turns, requiring looong slings. It's thin crux is protected by a bolt, which was Shaffer's highpoint. Reach a perfect belay ledge in the center of the wall. Pitch two is very unique, running parallel to the huge overhanging arete. Gaining each bolt is exciting and thought provoking. Bring a prusik if you take the ride ;)

1) 5.12- 90'
Begin on 'Nocturnal Submissions' wide crack. Keep an eye out for a bolt just right of crack at about 40' high. Head straight right on seams into center of headwall. Two bolt belay on 'Ear' ledge.

2) 5.11 80'
Follow line of 7 bolts leading diagonally away from ledge. Money pitch. Build anchor at big 'sidewalk' ledge. Rap off of 'Stainless Shield' anchors to the right. (A .5 cam placed in the ledge helps the belayer from getting violently pulled sideways)

Protection 

10 bolts
Single rack red C3 - #5


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